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2012 Hyundai Accent motor trouble

Have anyone had a problem with the motor on their 2012 Hyundai Accent ?? Yesterday, as I was leaving work my car acted as if it didn’t want to crank . I turn it off and started it again and it finally crank but took awhile to turn over, as I was traveling down the highway it started to jerk and I noticed that my temp gage was not showing whether it was hot cold or anything! I Called my Fiance and continued to drive and I get no more than 20 mins down the highway and my all the lights in the car came on such as the Battery Light, Check Engine light started to blink, Oil Light and some other light label EPS. after that happen my car started to decelerate it went from 70 mph to 20 and eventually shut the entire car down.

I am sure someone has had problems with a 2012 Accent but that is not your major concern right now. This thing has problems and you need to solve them . You may have caused serious damage by not stopping sooner. It looks like you will have to spend about 100.00 to 125.00 dollars plus towing to find out what is wrong and then you will have a major decision on your hands.

If this is the original battery, it if far from it’s expected life span.
If so, I would install a new battery. A dying battery can mess up all kinds of electrical components and make them do strange things.

Battery connections are the first place to begin when you have a “No Crank” situation. Even

if you have a new battery, if the connections are loose, dirty or corroded, you will not be

allowing the full flow of current to pass thru the connections. The connection may be

enough to turn on the lights, but not enough for the huge flow that is needed to operate the

starter. This is where many people say that they know the battery is good….”because the

lights come on”. This is no more a battery test than licking a 9 volt battery. It only tells you that there is electricity…not how many volts or the amperage that flows from the battery.

Jump starting may have wiggled the terminal just enough to allow the current to pass and start the engine, but tomorrow you have the same problem.

First remove the cables from the battery and use a wire brush to remove any corrosion and dirt from the battery posts and the cable terminals. There is a tool with a round wire brush for this purpose, found at any auto parts store for less than $10

Before connecting the cables, apply a coating of di-electric grease to the battery posts this will keep oxygen away from the connection so that it will not corrode as fast.

It is just as important that the other end of the cables also have a clean connection. Remove the negative cable from the battery again so that you do not short anything out. Follow both cables to their far ends, remove this connection and wire brush the connection and the cable terminal clean and retighten these connections.

If there was work done recently, there may have been an “engine to body” ground that was not installed following the work. These grounds normally run from the rear of the engine to the firewall and are uninsulated and most are a braided wire. If any of these are found unattached…reattach them.

Remember….this is not a “Sherman Tank” don’t over tighten the connections.

Tight…tight………………too tight…broke!!!