My 2012 Cadillac CTS has 79k miles and on Dec 21 I was out shopping when my car started struggling to start. I thought it was the battery considering I had to replace the battery already once since buying the car 7 months prior. But it started and off I went. I then started hearing a knocking sound as I accelerated. No warning lights no check engine lights no oil pressure warnings nothing. I checked the oil which was about 1/3 quart low. I added oil and went on. Car still struggled to turn over but eventually started. I ended my night and drove home. As I exited the highway the car stalled. It took a minute but it started and now I have this sound of broken metal in the engine. Still no lights coming on stating there is an issue. I was only a block from home so I drove it home and it stalled 3 more times along the way. I parked it and fearing the worst I put OBD reader on it and got no codes. The next morning I stated the car again it struggled to start and once started the sound was horrible like broken chain or metal in side the engine. This time I put OBD reader on and put the engine to 2k RPM’s and I got a knock sensor and now check engine light finally came on. Mobile mechanic came out said it sounds like a rod or piston broke. Had car towed to GM Certified mechanic that used to service my corvette and he changed the oil and said that it was full of metal and that the engine was toast. Called Cadillac where I bought it and they said it is out of warranty and not there problem. So now I have a 20k car with 79k miles and the bank breathing down my back and Cadillac not taking any responsibility for manufactures defect or implied warranty. Power train warranty is 7 year so just expired even though it is under 80k miles. Any suggestions on how I can get GM or Cadillac to change their tune and get me out of this mess.
You are out of warranty , end of story.
Wow, still paying for this car? How or why are you so far under water on it?
Who/What would allow for a loan with payments that run that long?
Sorry, but I think you could have been shot by your own gun to some degree by “purchasing” a vehicle that you cannot afford.
Was this car “purchased” new or used?
If you’re referring to the implied warranty of merchantability, that’s between the original purchaser of a new product and the retail outlet from which he bought it. In other words, when you buy a DVD player from Best Buy and you get it home and it’s broken, Best Buy cannot tell you to pound sand when you go to return it.
You bought a used car, the warranty of merchantability doesn’t apply to you, and even if it did, it would be between you and the seller, not you and GM.
Further, you bought a used car and do not know first hand the maintenance history of the vehicle. If the previous owner abused the snot out of it (which he probably did if it broke this early), that’s not a manufacturer’s defect, it’s owner abuse, and GM isn’t responsible for it.
Honestly, why do you expect GM to give you free money for a car that you did not buy from them in the first place, and that is out of warranty?
Did you sign an “AS IS” disclaimer? If so you’re out of luck no matter what. And I don’t know what you mean by “implied warranty” unless you’re making an assumption; and we know how those frequently go.
It’s not a factory defect. It’s a prior owner (or multiple prior owners) problem caused most likely by neglect or abuse. Gets run out of oil or oil never changed, person fills the engine with heavyweight motor oil to keep it quiet, and palms it off to a dealer or car auction.
You’re in trouble with the bank big time.
7 months doesn’t sound long to me…
Oh, thanks TT. I misread that part about the 7 months since taking out a loan for the car. That makes more sense.
I would have thought it was not the battery considering I had to replace the battery already once since buying the car 7 months prior.
That car was about the right age (5 1/2 - 6 1/2 years) for the factory battery to go belly-up when it did.
When the knocking first started that was likely when the engine was starting to shake itself apart. Any actions after that is really irrelevant. Codes often don’t show internal engine issues and oil pressure can be fine while the engine tears itself apart. The fact that it is within a month or two of the 7 year powertrain warranty though and a little under the 80K, should suggest that you at least approach GM for some good faith assistance. Of course the engine would need to be dismantled to figure out the cause which will likely be abuse by the previous owner. GM would then say no deal. If you can show a defect, that might help but it would purely be up to GM corporate and not the dealer.
At any rate you need to decide if you will put a new engine in or not. Then the engine would need to be inspected to see if there is any reason to deal with corporate or not. Can’t help the fact that the bank isn’t very understanding but it’s either dump the car or spend, what, $5-10,000 more? Not an easy choice. Maybe GM would throw in half the cost of the engine if you pay the rest and labor. That would likely be their cost and they’d make a friend.
Bank not being understanding ? What is there to be understanding about. A person borrows money and agrees to pay back the vehicle loan , period. The bank does not guarantee the vehicle will run 10 years or 10 minutes.
Not that it makes a lot of difference, but was this car purchased used from a Cadillac dealer?
The reason I pose this question is that one line of reasoning is that a used Cadillac (or Lincoln, Mercedes, etc.) are usually purchased by people of means as new cars and are probably well- maintained and are good bets as used cars. If the car had a dubious past, I would think the Cadillac dealer would have sent the car to the auction block. If the car came from a used car dealer, then it probably went through the auction as a cast off from a new car dealer.
The other line of reasoning is to stay away from high level cars when they become used cars. In his book, “What You Should Know About Cars”, the late Tom McCahill said that he had two friends that bought new cars at the same time. One bought a Cadillac while the other bought a VW Beetle. After four years, both cars had traveled about the same number of miles, had regular by the book maintenance, and both cars after the 4 years were worth the same amount of money, even though the Cadillac cost four times what the VW cost new. The reason for this was that the VW was much cheaper to maintain. The engine could almost be repaired on the kitchen table using kitchen utensils.
I am rather surprised that if the car came from a Cadillac dealer, the car wouldn’t have been maintained well by the previous owner.
Surprised why. Just because of brand or type of vehicle has nothing to do with maintaining the vehicle. Just think how many posts on here that the person says they did not know to check oil between oil changes.
@VOLVO_V70. I know we have motorists of all makes that don’t check the oil.level in the crankcase.
I am just suggesting that the Cadillac dealer might have sent a car such as the OP purchased to the auction. On the other hand, the car might have been well maintained and the problem really was a factory defect that didn’t show up until long after the warranty was up. I once owned a Ford Aerostar that had a hairline crack in one of the cylinder heads. The problem showed up after 40,000 miles. The warranty went to 50.000 miles. The Ford dealer replaced the engine.
A couple of items in response to everyone’s comments.
First is that this car was purchased for $24,000 with a 3 month or 3000 miles limited warranty
Second is that the car was purchased from a Cadillac dealership in Southern CA.
Third Used cars usually are covered by implied warranties under state law
There are two common types of implied warranties. Both are unspoken and unwritten, and based on the principle that the seller stands behind the product. Under a “warranty of merchantability,” the seller promises the product will do what it is supposed to do. For example, a toaster will toast, or a car will run. If the car doesn’t run, implied-warranties law says that the dealer must fix it. Furthermore, there is the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act or Federal-warranty-law which states you can sue based on breach of express warranties, implied warranties, or service contracts. If successful, consumers can recover reasonable attorneys’ fees and other court costs
Regardless the car should be covered by the dealer. I’ve not asked for money I just want the dealer to get me out of this deal and into a new car so the bank gets paid and they get another unit sold. I’ll even agreed that the negative equity could be rolled into the new deal with a cap on the figure.
But they are not open to anything. Which is wrong.
Can you not see the 3 month part ? That means the selling dealer is done with this deal and vehicle . They have not breached any contract . There is no such animal as a implied warranty .
No, they are not. in most states used cars are sold AS-IS unless there is a written warranty. In your case, you have a written warranty of 3 months and 3000 miles, you are just beyond it. You are WELL out of GM’s warranty. And the dealer isn’t GM, they are a private entity. Too bad, so sad but legally I think you are hung out to dry. If you don’t believe this, hire a lawyer.
Sorry but that is not accurate. Because they are providing the loan they are included in the dealer representing that the car is going to operate as it should. They are what’s called the “Holder”
Where are you getting all these completely wrong ideas . I would like to be there when you tell the bank they need to fix your car.
I am hiring an attorney and the warranty length isn’t the issue. The issue is they represented the car to be in perfect condition. No mechanical issue. And furthermore I am not outside the Drive Train Warranty. Under California’s lemon law statute states that the implied warranty of merchantability ( a very limited and basic warranty that the vehicle will provide safe transportation) is AUTOMATICALLY imposed on all used vehicle sales if the used car or truck is sold to a consumer along with an express warranty. Some used cars and trucks have manufacturers’ power train warranties that last as long as 10 years or 100,000 miles. Further, many dealers offer 30 day or 1,000 mile warranties with their vehicles. Even these types of very basic and minimal express warranties are typically enough to impose an implied warranty into a use car sale. So much for too bad so sad
Me don’t think that is correct.