I have a ticking in the engine, no one seems to know what it is…related to oil? Thanks
Ticking when? When just started cold? Running when all warmed up? Cold days only? Hot days only?
Is there enough oil on the dipstick? Has it been changed regularly?
Does the ticking get faster as you rev the engine up? Or only when you drive faster?
How many miles are on the engine? Answer these questions and maybe we can help.
https://community.cartalk.com/u/mustangman Mustangman
March 19
Ticking when? When just started cold? Running when all warmed up? Cold days only? Hot days only?
Is there enough oil on the dipstick? Has it been changed regularly?
Does the ticking get faster as you rev the engine up? Or only when you drive faster?
How many miles are on the engine? Answer these questions and maybe we can help.
Whatever you did, didn’t work, it just copied my post.
Hello!
It’s a 2011 Liberty – only 38k miles.
Ticking starts when cold start (I am in VT – its always cold!). Ticking doesn’t change when hitting the gas. I think it goes away when its been running for a while – 10-15 minutes?
It started when it was really cold this winter.
At that time, the blower for the heat and a/c wasn’t running- guy said it was literally frozen – not cold but frozen in place. He bonked it with pliers and it worked again.
It is using more oil than usual, but topping it off, just had a complete oil change.
Local Jeep dealerships says they could not isolate the issue as it stopped ticking on the lift (?). It is under an extended warranty until July and I want to make them fix it!
When I brought it to my local shop, at first they said it was an oil uptake blah blah, then the second time a few weeks later, they said OH Crap! You’re going to need a new engine.
Any thoughts would be GREAT!
Tanks
Most likely valve train clatter. In other words, top end
That is a lame excuse, in my opinion
Tell them to leave the car outside the shop and start it the next morning, when it’s cold. If necessary, diagnose it in the cold BEFORE it warms up and “goes away” . . . with a chassis ear, common sense and determination, they should be able to diagnose it. I’m wondering if the guys at the shop are missing one or the other.
Keep meticulous records. In case they don’t fix it before the warranty expires. That way you can rightfully say you complained about this issue before the warranty expired
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If it’s not in the valvetrain, I would look for broken exhaust manifold bolts.
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Possibilities for V6 3.7L engine
- Worn out/dirty oil, wrong spec of oil, or too high or too low oil level
- Low oil pressure (have shop check it w/the shop gauge)
- Something is blocking the oil flow to/from cyl head (oil restrictor in cyl head gasket for example)
- Cracked/broken oil pump pick-up
- Worn valve guides (see any black/blue smoke out the tailpipe at start-up?)
- Rocker arms contacting spring retainer
- Rocker arm loose or adjuster at maximum extension (check things affecting valve lash)
- Oil leak or camshaft wear
- Engine hasn’t been rebuilt recently, right? The valve lifter/adjuster ass’y has to be filled with oil as part of the rebuild procedure.
Common sense of course to eliminate other simpler to fix causes, like worn accessory bearings/ belts/pulleys or exhaust leaks etc first. Sometimes an old piece of garden hose can be used as a sort of stethoscope to isolate where a sound is coming from.
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I hate to say this . . . this particular engine does not have a good reputation, from a mechanical standpoint
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… which leads to suggestion to get all car maintenance records in order to show that maintenance was done properly (was it?), as to prove anything under warranty OP will need to show engine was properly maintained
If you mean the ticking gets faster but not louder, that’s probably a valve.
If it doesn’t tick faster when revved, it’s not the valves.
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