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2010 Toyota Corolla s no start no crank no noise

So I have a 2010 Toyota Corolla s a few months ago turned my car off came out and no start no nothing I have been jumping the starter with the battery it went out battery went out alternator went out all 3 have been changed about a month ago it’s an automatic and I just changed out the neutral safty switch still no start what els is left or should i just take it to the shop

Anyone els having issues still with brand new parts

If you are throwing parts at the problem without checking voltages etc, you should have a good independent shop check this out.

What voltage does the battery have sitting and when the engine is running? What shape are the cables in? Is the belt that drive the alternator in good shape? Do you have a parasitic draw? If you do not have the information on these, a local shop will be your best bet.

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Me and my brother checked all the fuses and relays and all were good and we did volt drop tests

Common problem - starter solenoid contacts wear out, no start. How old is the starter?

New starter alternator and battery couple months old

I had this happen w battery, starter, and alternator dying in the span of a year and a half. Half a year ago we replaced the ignition switch (the car’s 200,000), and its worked fine since then.

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With key in start the two wires that connect to the starter should both measure at least 10.5 volts. What do you get? Probe between terminal and starter case.

Regardless what is new you must verify that the battery has 12+volts and get a copy of the car’s wiring harness for the starting system. First test for a good connection of the battery ground and then either begin at the starter or at the battery cable and find where current is not being carried to the starter solenoid or if it is getting there the starter solenoid is bad. Of course a faulty ground at the starter is possible but very unlikely.

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Whoa man… slow down. You came out to your car and you said you had no start…no nothing. Then you said you jumped the starter from the battery. Well… that is not nothing… That is a good battery…and a starter waiting for the 12vdc signal it would get from the starter relay.

You guys replaced a lot…and that actually adds unknowns to the equation honestly. You need to test and verify what you have and do not have…before replacing what surely were some good parts here.

To me it sounds as though you had a bad starter relay or starter solenoid at first and maybe nothing more…but since you didn’t test as you went I cant possibly know.

Mr @Rod_Knox has given you solid advice to follow, as usual…follow it… and then locate and pull your starter solenoid and see if you can swap it with another used elsewhere.

Report back after that.

P.S…yes you can get new parts that are total Dog S&^%…so that is a reality…

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So I changed the starter and alternator when it went out over time of jumping the starter my brother checked the starter replay and it was fine how ever he did say he wasn’t getting power from where where it plugs in behind the radio I believe or from the starter wire I plan on checking it my self in the next few days but if no power from where the starter relay plugs in could it be the ignition switch if I cant figure it out imma take it to the shop I’m new at working on cars so I appreciate all the input

Ps I get dash board lights but that’s it no click no start

That indicates a faulty starter if there is no clicking when you turn the key but all dash lights are ON.
Some rebuilt starters are no good right out of the box.A good idea is to have the part store test it for you.I know these cars pretty well since I drive a 2012 Corolla. The only thing I replaced on this car was the battery.

If you understand relays and how they work… you can decode the socket that the relay plugs into…so you can verify what ingredients you have…or dont have at that socket. Most relays have a pole map on the side of the relay itself… It will decode which poles are the + and - of the electromagnet …and also the power circuit that is cut in half by the relay… so once you know that… you can send 12vdc to the starter solenoid bypassing the relay…just to verify. You can look up details on this, now that you know.

I’ve been doing this a while, so…I apologize if it seems I brushed past things too quickly. In my daily tasks of fixing things, you have to be quick on your feet so… apologies.

One easy way to check the starter operation is to run a power jumper wire to the ignition tab of the starter solenoid. That should turn the starter on if it is okay. From what you seem to be saying it seems there is a problem with the safety circuit to the starter. There may be more than one safety switch involved in supplying power to the solenoid. This should be a pretty easy problem to figure out. The best way to find the trouble is to test for power getting to where it should be. Just swapping parts doesn’t always work in solving the trouble. Especially when there is a wiring problem casing the issue, like a loose connection somewhere.

Don’t forget the neutral safety switch (if an automatic) or the same thing operated by the clutch (if a manual.) If its circuit is open, the starter solenoid will not be powered.

fyi, I own a 27 year-old Corolla, still in use as a daily driver. These are things that have caused “fails to crank” over the years.

  • faulty starter motor
  • faulty replacement starter motor
  • faulty ignition switch
  • faulty clutch safety switch
  • faulty battery
  • faulty battery connections