2010 Sebring Touring 2.4 starting issues after alternator and battery replacement

I’ll perface this by saying that I have had tipm issues I believe for a long time and I currently do have a used one on order I’m going to try swapping out. About 6 months ago, my horn stopped working after which I lost my right passenger headlight and blinker and my abs light came on

Being the cheapo I am, I just wired my driver headlight to the passenger headlight and carried on for the last 6 months. No issues

Until the other weekend. Car was dead. Was acting like a bad alternator (battery light came on while driving, after shutting the car off it wouldn’t start. went to jump the car, smelled something funny, alternator was getting red hot) replaced the alternator (never got it tested, but spinning the alternator by hand produced a grinding noise) and everything was good for 3 days.

Then my car died at a gas station. Had a real hard time getting it started, finally got it started. Car was acting crazy while driving, dash lights coming on, speedo jumping around, but after about 20 minutes of driving everything went back to normal. Parked the car, wouldn’t start. Said screw it, went to Walmart bought a battery. Car initially wouldn’t start, jumped it, boom everything fine for again. Drove the car for days with no issues. Until 4 days later, car died at the store again. Stone dead wouldn’t even try to turn over after driving it and starting it all day long.

Got a jump, car started immediately, drove it for 20 minutes car was fine for another 4 days until today. Car died at the store again. Got a jump drove for 20 minutes everything seemed seemed good. Bright it home, car won’t start again lol
obviously I’ll be replacing the tipm as soon as it gets here but is there anything else you guys think I should be looking into?

Thanks for any advice

I think you should be looking into buying a digital volt ohm meter and learning how to use it.

Then you can check if the new alternator is putting out more than 13 volts when running. You can check if the battergy is reasonably charged when itseems to need a jump. If it nas 12.6 volts, it isn’t the battery. Then check for resistance in the positive and negative battery cables. Then you can run a parasitic draw test.

Until you install the replacement TIPM, and that’s the problem, there’s not much else you can do.


Thanks guys. I actually do have a multimeter I was planning on doing some tests tomorrow. Chrysler in their infinite wisdom decided to put this battery down behind the driver’s side wheel well. Requires taking the wheel, and a bunch of those plastic clips I’m sure we all love off, in order to get at the terminals

Alternator is also not in the greatest spot, behind the passenger side wheel well. Lol

Was just kinda spitballing wondering if maybe anyone here may have run into a similar issue before.

Anyways thanks for replying you two, I’ll keep you updated and let you know how it goes.

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