big rust hole over the wheel well of my truck
Yup, that happens.
So, do you have a question?
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Next time, get a Ford if that is a big bummer for you. Here’s why.
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i would never own a Ford they are worst things to rust
Haha. No argument on the broader topic, but the Ford F-150 will definitely not develop a rust spot above the wheel. Being aluminum and all.
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The solution is to remove all the rust (using wire brush, angle grinder, etc) down to clean, bare metal, then effect the repair. Depending on the size of the problem you may need to cut out the bad section and weld new metal in to replace it. Or you might be able to just use a fiberglass-method repair kit and some body filler. My dad’s econo method was to use the sheet metal from an old beer can, cut and form it to the desired shape, glue it on the paint side using 2-part epoxy, hold it down somehow while it sets, then bondo, smoothing, sanding, and rattle can spray paint. Work ok for him.
Aluminum “rust” is not common.
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How do you sand down a hole to bare metal?
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(ten character minimum)
I haven’t seen a steel beer can in over fifty years.
Tester
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Same way I eat a donut.
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You eat the donut, you can’t eat the hole.
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In the old days,I use to repair these with old aluminium license plates that I cut to fit the size of the hole. I applied tar pitch around the plate and use machine screws to fasten it over the hole.Its a cheap redneck repair but it work.
I’m picturing George sanding a donut down to bare metal . . .
I admit . . . sometimes when a person mentions something, my mind takes it a step further
If the donut was as old as his vehicles, you could use it as a hockey puck 
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That donut looks pretty tasty … hmm … maybe I’ll stop in at the donut shop today … 
If you want to be successful w/your own business in the USA with nearly 100% chance of success, a shop that sell donuts, ice cream, and coffee is the ticket.
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I doubt that the big rust hole that you see is the only problem that exists and Ford is no more prone to rust than anything else out there.
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Standard operating procedure in the Midwest for flat surfaces was galvanized roofing flashing fastened with sheet metal screws or pop rivets and sealed with roof patching cement - good for when your feet went through the floor. For curved surfaces, fiberglass mat and resin. For large holes in curved area one can support the glass mat with strips of hardware cloth or window screen, or make a temporary paper mache “mold” waxed or greased for release - with care one can be very accurate. Take care with polyester resin, read the precautions, etc., fumes are toxic and eye contact with the hardener is a one time event. Epoxy (West Systems is good), may be less hazardous, though more expensive.
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We used to have a couple Baskin Robbins/Dunkin Doughnuts housed together herein AZ. Not sure if that was a common thing elsewhere or not. 