I have a 2007 Hyundai Tucson (2.0L L4 DOHC 16V), and ever since the winter season began, the vehicle tends to either take a while to start (no clicking sound, however), and when it does start and is running, it would turn off while on the road after some time of driving.
Keep in mind, that for around 2 years now, I haven’t been using my vehicle to commute between home and work, so it’s been mainly sitting in the driveway. My parents would use it to drive to the nearby grocery stores just to make use of it. This is where/when they would tell me the issues happen.
The battery in the vehicle is about maybe 5 years old(?). And my father and I tested the battery and alternator, and the multimeter would read above 14 volts.
It stalls while you are driving? This is a safety issue, and I strongly suggest that you take it to a competent mechanic for diagnosis and repair before that situation results in an accident.
After replacing the battery I suggest you get an automatic battery charger/maintainer rated 2-6 amps or so and charge the battery overnight every couple months.
You may have a battery that is failing internally and intermittently. How old is it? If more than 4 years old I would replace it if it gave any signs of trouble.
When the engine quits, do all electrical circuits go dead? (No dash lights, headlights, etc?) But then moments later it’s all OK and the engine starts and runs?
But it may be poor/intermittent connections at the battery or an internally corroded wire from the battery. Check those possibilities first.
Along with the above suggestions and questions from other responses to your post.
“ My parents would use it to drive to the nearby grocery stores just to make use of it.” Short drives are rough on the engine by not getting all fluids brought up to full temperature and does not get the battery fully recharged.
@eddo I tend to fill my fuel tank as soon as it hits the half-way mark, so it could very well be 2 years olf, if not more (if that is what you’re referring to).
Also, since i haven’t been driving the vehicle as much anymore, I haven’t taken it to get its regular oil change.
Hmm, seems it has been two years or more since last oil change. Vehicle subjected to severe service—short drives. Oil level not checked? Battery light indicates problem with battery or alternator, or both.
In as much as you, nor your parents, need the vehicle, fix the problems, then sell it.
If that happens after the engine stalls, but not on with engine running, that’s normal. Those lights are supposed to be on w/key in “on” and engine not running, then turn off once engine is started. A way for owner to tell the warning light bulbs are working.
Ask shop to measure the battery voltage before first startof day, then immediately after starting engine. Should be around 12.6 volt for the first measurement, then 13.5-15.5 volts for the second. Batteries generally poop out at around the 5 year mark, butwill last longer if vehicle not driven much, so your battery could be ok, just discharged and needs an overnight charging w/a battery charger.
old gas could be part of your issues. not sure if it would work, but pull the gas cap and take a wiff of inside the fill tube and see if it still smells like gasoline. if it smells more like paint thinner, it has gone bad.
So recently I had a private (actual) mechanic look into the problem of why my vehicle would not start (after some time while parked and not being used), even though the battery was fine, and he found that it was due to a burnt out “main relay” (see image below of a normal one). The one the mechanic showed me was all rusted.
This recent visit to the mechanic was prompted by not being able to turn the vehicle on when it was about to be used to venture to the airport.
The last time this problem happened, a few months ago, I had Geico jumpstart it, and then I took it to my local PepBoys for a diagnosis. They said my battery was fine also, but also gave me a list of items I should have them check which inlcuded changing my brakes & rotors (even though my brakes are fine), changing the brake fluid, a tune-up package, air filter replacement, and a “3-step BG fuel clean package”.
Was PepBoys trying to pull a fast one on me (because I used to go to them for oil changes and they rarely ever pulled this sorta thing – maybe once), or are they simply not competent to diagnose certain types of vehicle issues, or both?
The battery is ok, but apparently was discharged before you drove to the shop as your vehicle needed to be jump started. The brake work, air filter etc. was part of a curtesy inspection, nothing to do with the jump-start event.
The staff is probably instructed to check every car that is brought to the shop for potential problems that may need to be corrected, or if there are add’l services they provide that might be generally helpful, and inform the car owner w/their recommendations. Doesn’t have to be related to the primary reason the owner brought the car to the shop.
The car owner has to decide for themselves whether to follow the recommendations. Or not. Sort of like when you get a phone call during dinner: “Your car warranty is about to expire, would you like to renew?” Maybe you should, maybe you shouldn’t, maybe you don’t even have a car warranty.
From the reports we get here, these sorts of recommendations tend to come more from chain repair shops and dealership shops, not as much from well-recommended independent repair shops.
In any event, glad you got that pesky relay problem resolved. Relays are usually pretty reliable. I had a faulty fuel pump relay years ago on a VW Rabbit, but never had a main engine relay go faulty. You’ve proved such a thing is possible though. The rust appearing on the relay is sort of worrying, I’ve never seen that. Do you live near the ocean?
