I have a 2007 hyundai sonata. The car sometimes and randomly won’t ‘turn-over’. I get a check-engine light but this may go away, also. I’ve gotten stuck at random locations and if I wait maybe 10-15 minutes, the car sometimes starts again.
The worst incident was when the car started but would not go past 10-15mph.
I’ve taken the car to a garage and they’ve checked the computer and it seems to indicate a throttle issue. They cleaned it and the car was fine for a couple of weeks, but now having similar incidents where it randomly won’t start.
Here’s more info if you have the 2.4
I’m taking this from TSB 10-FL-009, dated July 2010, related to throttle body cleaning on the 2.4
After cleaning the throttle body,
Without starting the engine turn the ignition key ON for at least 10 seconds and then OFF for at least 10 seconds. This procedure allows the ECM to automatically learn the throttle valve position.
If you have the 2.4, I’d try this procedure.
Simple enough and doesn’t cost anything.
If the fault codes were P2110, P2118 or P2119, this TSB might apply.
It may as well be ignition problem more in particular distributor. I had the exact symptoms with my Mitsubishi Galant 1993. The car randomly stopped while I was driving. After 20 minutes I was able to start it. It went fine for a while and then it stopped again. The car sometimes would not let me go on higher revs because it would stop when i reach 2.5 k or so. I changed the distributor and the car went just fine for 2 weeks. Then it died again because the oil somehow had found the way into my distributor and it was misfiring. Since it’s an old car I threw it out but you should get the repairman to diagnose it.
But I just logged onto the Hyundai technical information website. And both the 2.4 and the 3.3 Sonata have coil-on-plug ignition for the 2007 Model year.
I don’t think the car not cranking is related to the drivability problem, or is at most obliquely related. When a car refuses to crank, that is almost always an electrical problem in the high current circuitry, either with the battery, battery connections, ignition switch, safety switch, starter relay, starter selenoid, or starter motor.
I’d start by taking the car to a shop who can test the battery and charging system. This is simple to do and doesn’t take much time. Many major retail auto repair shops will do this for free.
I appreciate everyone’s comments, esp db4690. I’m not sure how the tsb may be related to my problem, but my car was definitely in ‘limp mode’. I’ll look for the fault code, since I don’t have it with me right now.
I’ll give the ignition on, then ignition off thing to see if that helps.
To George, I’m not sure if my problem has anything to do with the electrical system. I have a pretty good charge and the guys at the garage didn’t think it had anything to do with my problem. To give more detail, the car does crank but does not ‘turn-over’.
Will post more once I find the fault code. Once again, much appreciated for the responses.
That CEL (check engine light) is just a kid in class waving her hand trying to get you attention because she has the answer. You need to have the codes read. Some places will read them for FREE. Try Autozone or Advanced Auto Parts. Get the exact code (like P0123) not just their translation into English and post it back here.