2007 Buick Lucerne CX 3.8 V6 134k miles replaced the master cylinder and the back drivers side break line. Now the back drivers side and the front passengers side break lines ( only get a little fluid out when trying to bleed lines ) the other 2 are normal. Made sure the bleeder is clean. Took for a drive to see and the front passengers tire and back drivers tire do not have breaks ?? An help would be Great
Are you saying you replaced you replaced 2 of the rubber brake lines?
How do you know the front pass and drivers rear brakes don’t work?
Did you bench bleed the master cylinder before you installed it?
How did bleen the overall system? Pedal pump? Pressure bleed or vacuum bleed?
Answer back and we’ll try and help.
Brakes not breaks .
Sorry I was using text to talk.
Replaced one of the metal lines that is next to the gas tank to the rubber brake line ( rear drivers side )
Did not bench bleed the master and had someone to pump the pedal while I opened and closed the bleeder.
And for the rear drivers and front passengers not getting enough pressure the fluid did not shoot out like the other 2 lines.
Then you won’t likely ever get the brakes to work! You can try to bleed the master by opening each line from the master to the system just a bit while your helper is pressing the pedal. If fluid starts to come out tighten the line while your helper still pushes the pedal. Repeat for the 2nd line. You may need to try this a few times. If you can’t get fluid to flow, you will need to remove the master, bench bleed it and re-install and bleed the master lines again. After successfully doing that, re-bleed the entire system. I think that will get the brakes all working.
Since this is a GM car and it is 12 years old, assume the brake hoses will fail. They will act like check valves and prevent your calipers from retracting causing the caliper to overheat. Watch for it.
Thank you and what I might do is just change all the lines because here in Michigan all that salt does not help !
The other option if you have an air compressor is to vacuum bleed the brake lines. That often eliminates the requirement to take the MC back out and bench bleed it. You can get an inexpensive kit that works well from Harbor Freight.
I know what I am doing this weekend and Thank you to everyone for letting me know your thoughts !!
Post back if you have more problems or if you get it fixed. Good Luck!
If you open the brake system on your vehicle, it requires a factory equivalent scanner to bleed the brakes because of the ABS.
These computers are going to ruin our language. No wonder there are so many errors when the computer doesn’t know the difference between brake and break. Makes me wonder if it was the computer that wrote that back to school “break” special that I complained to the editor about?
Yes, but one still has the opportunity to edit one’s words, prior to posting.
In carpenter-speak… Measure twice, cut once.
Unfortunately, all too many people are willing to relinquish all control over their words to a computer, and the result is the appearance of… let’s just say… compromised literacy, if not actual compromised literacy.
Years ago, the common excuse among students was… The dog ate my homework.
Now, the common excuse on the internet is… The computer changed my wording/spelling.
Maybe… or maybe not…
It sounds like some air has made its way into the ABS modulator. The ABS automated bleed procedure is probably the only solution at this point, and requires the use of the corresponding scan tool. Which the OP probably doesn’t have. Take the Buick to a shop that has that scan tool, hire them to bleed the brakes. After that, as long as the hydraulic system isn’t opened up in front of the ABS modulator, the manual diy’er bleed procedure should work.
I am having the same issue… replaced drivers side, last section of the rear line after blowing a lot of fluid getting home. Then the line has no fluid getting to it so it won’t bleed correctly.
My son has an expensive snap-on scanner; So he should be able to get the abs to allow fluid through the lines so we can bleed them?
If so, will plugging the scanner in initiate the process, automatically?
Is this some sort of safety feature, so when air gets to the abs unit it shuts down that line to prevent air from getting to the other three lines?
You have no idea how much this is appreciated!
All snap-on scanners are expensive
Assuming his is one of the current models . . . or at least a recent model . . . with up-to-date software, yes, the scanner will be able to initiate the automated bleed procedure
If it’s a snap on brick, maybe not, because those have been out of production for some time, although the company did provide software updates for a few years after that. A lot of guys hung onto them long after they’d outlived their usefulness, in my opinion
He’s out of town, returning tonight…
I believe it’s less than 3 years old. he HAD a brick, before, I think.
is it a pretty cut and dry procedure or should I look it up and have it ready for him? He’s a well versed mechanic, I’m not. At least not these days. I have a 77 Blazer I’ve never had these kinds of issues with…LOL
It’s probably a Solus Edge, that’s one of the more common models; I have that one, for what it’s worth
It’s cut and dry; the scanner will walk him through all of the steps
thanks so much!
Snap on scanner, Modis is the model…?