Install was easy enough, but afterwards the high-beam indicator would not go off. After it got dark enough I also noticed that one of the settings the lights were very dim (like if you have battery issues) and the other is not quite full brights, but close.
Clearly you made a mistake in the connections. Go back over the work using a wiring diagram (the dealer parts guy should be willing to print one for you). Also, you may want to get a schematic (again, ask the parts guy), get a meter, and do some continuity and voltage checks.
Thanks for the reply “the same mountain bike”. The sockets only had three wires and I just matched the colors, but I’ll double check that tonight.
Thanks again
Be sure to check the connections for continuity also.
And I’d suggest checking the circuitry without regard to the wire colors. It is possible that the connector is of a “generic” design, and wiring colors may not be consistent. The idea is a “wild card” idea, but when there’s a problem with an installation it’s wise to not make any assumptions.
It’s also possible the connections were made correctly, but some of them are not making a good solid low resistance connection. Headlamp currents are often above 20 amps, so that requires the connections to be 0.001 ohms or so. 1/1000 of an ohm in other words. It’s puzzling why this would affect the hi-beam indicator though. Maybe take a look in the owner’s manual, see if they use the hi-beam indicator on the dash to indicate when one of the headlights is out. If so, that would explain it, as a high resistance connection to the bulb would mimic the headlight being out.
Hmmmmmmmmmmm … I changed my own bulbs to those new ultrabright (but still incandescent) bulbs a few years back on my '05 Scion. I think they’re called “Silverstar” if I remember correctly. And I always drive with my headlights on, in all weather. Before I retired, that was a total of perhaps two hours a day.
Perhaps I would be wise to check my own sockets. I’ll let everyone know when I do, just as a bit of feedback. I may end up thanking the OP for providing the reference for the high temp sockets.
"Thanks for the reply "the same mountain bike". The sockets only had three wires and I just matched the colors, ..."
I’ve worked on cars for over 20 years, and have yet to see a universal wired connector have the same wiring color scheme as the factory wire harness. Some of the colors may be close, but that is no guaranty they match up to function. With the high beam indicator constantly on with the headlights, I think the connector is wired wrong, forcing the high beam and low beam filaments to act against each other seeking a proper ground.
When I need to wire up a universal connector, I always use the factory connector to verify which wire-to-wire connection needs to be made to keep the correct function of the connector. In some cases, cross-wiring as connection can fry an expensive module, although a light bulb connection is not likely to do that. Hopefully, you still have the factory connectors and can match up the wire position to the wire coming out of the new connectors to find out which wire should go where.
Finally got around to checking the wiring and Mountain Bike was correct, wiring was the issue. I corrected that and everything is good now. Thanks for all the replies!