I have a 2006 Honda Accord EX Sdn I have replaced the gas cap, O2 sensor, mass air flow sensor, and the EGR valve and the engine light is still on. We’ve checked all spark plugs and unhooked the battery. What could be causing it to stay on?!?!
No one can help without know what specific error codes are stored in the computer. Have you had those read? In most areas, the big box auto parts chains will read them for free. Post the exact codes (“Pxxxx” format), and not just some description of them.
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I haven’t since I’ve changed everything I plan on buying my own this Friday. But as soon as I do I’ll post the codes
Also, is it the 4-cylinder or the V6?
Before you randomly change parts, read the codes to point you in the direction of the problem. Disconnecting the battery does nothing to fix the problem. All it does is reset the computer and it ingnores the problem for a bit and then starts to report the problem that never went away. Any auto parts store (except in California) will read the codes for free. get the codes read and post them here. As @cigroller said the format will be Pxxx
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I expect the most common cause of the check engine light in a car like yours is a problem w/the evaporative emissions system. As suggested above you’ll know for sure after you retrieve the diagnostic codes. If you post them here you’ll get some ideas what to do next. Suggest to not replace anything beforehand, b/c that just introduces more variables into the equation. For example your replacement o2 sensor, MAF sensor, gas cap, and EGR valve all have to be considered add’l suspects now.
These are the codes popping up and everything has been changed! Let me add I meant the coolant temp sensor was replaced not the O2 Sensor!
4 cylinder
Which coolant temp sensor was replaced? The one in the engine or the one in the radiator?
The situation looks worse than it probably is. Some of those codes might go away by themselves once the actual problem(s) are fixed. If I had that problem I’d start by fixing the diagnostic code with the smallest number, the P0456 small evap leak. That should be a doodle for a good shop, may be that a small hose has slipped off its connector is all. They might need to drag out their smoke machine if they can’t spot the problem quickly. In the meantime keep a weather eye on the dashboard engine coolant gauge, and stop driving and turn the engine off asap (when it is safe of course) if it goes into the overheating range. It will be helpful to your shop tech if you are able to tell them whether or not you can hear the engine compartment fans turning on and off occasionally, as you go for a drive. So listen for that.
And don’t replace any parts unless the tech knows for sure they test faulty.
If there is an open (broken wire) in the engine coolant temperature circuit, the gauge will be inoperative.
The ECT circuit repair takes precedence over the small evap. system leak.
Concur, if the dashboard coolant temp gauge isn’t working, that has to be the first priority. OP didn’t mention this though. OP: Is the coolant temp gauge working correctly, or not?
It doesn’t even get to the half way point on the temperature gauge. It moves up but doesn’t reach the half way point
It was done at the garage and the paper they gave me says radiator mounted
That indeed does look lower than I’d expect for a fully warmed engine. Meaning it had at least been idled for 10 minutes. On my Corolla the normal warm-engine temp would be about 2/3 up. Same more or less for my truck. From what I can tell for the 06 Accord w/2.4 L engine, there’s a coolant temp sensor that controls the radiator fans (which I presume is really just a temp-activated switch), and another that is used by the computer. The one that is used by the computer is coolant temp sensor number 2 which is the one your code-sheet refers. That’s located on the radiator. I’m not seeing another coolant temp sensor besides those two. Maybe there’s another one just for a gauge.
Are you seeing any puffs of steam or signs the coolant is overflowing? Suggest to be extra cautious about the coolant temp b/c an engine overheating episode can be very expensive.
If you feel confused by the the different coolant temp sensors, be thankful you don’t have an early 90s Corolla! That configuration has 5 or 6, and is really confusing.
It doesn’t smoke or over heat at all and the one they changed on the paper they gave me it says radiator mounted. I just want to be able to get this light off so I can get it inspected
There’s a puzzle remaining . If that sensor (number 2, located at the radiator) is what the drivetrain computer uses, and presuming the computer also controls the dashboard gauge, why is the gauge needle moving up? At this point it is a mystery and needs to be explained.
The garage I took it to told my husband that it needs to be completely rewired ($2000 job) while others that have looked at it say the garage is wrong especially because no electrical/wiring codes are showing up…
In most cases a total rewiring job would only be required on a 2006 model if the car had been in a flood. It’s possible that a shop would visually inspect some of the electrical connectors. Maybe they did that and found considerable corrosion on the connector pins and sockets of multiple connectors. That could be cause for replacing the wiring system, even with no diagnostic codes.
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