I replaced the rotors and pads on both front brakes. I replaced the driver side caliper. I bled all the brakes multiple times but the pedal sinks to the floor. The back brakes work but the front have almost no pressure.
Exactly how did you bleed the brakes . . .
What condition are the front brake hoses in?
If the brake system is opened, it requires a scan tool to position ABS solenoids to their home positions, and then the brake system is pressure bled.
Tester
Are you saying I need a scanner to allow the abs module to bleed and then the front brakes will work
What happened was the caliber busted a piston and my mc bled dry. I put a new caliper on and no pressure to the front but the back work
If you ran the master cylinder dry you’re very unlikely to get the air out of the system. A scan tool (not necessarily a factory level tool) will be required to actuate the ABS system and force the air pockets out of the modulator assembly.
Alternately, if you’re brave bordering on stupid and have no regard for safety or the law, fill the brake fluid, drive to a gravel road, accelerate to 35mph, and lock up the brakes to activate an ABS event. Do this 3 or 4 times. Often the churning of the valves will force the air through to the calipers where you can bleed it out if and when you make it back home.
The Autel Maxicheck shown in the link I provided has a feature to auto bleed the ABS modulator by exercising the solenoids. It’s not highlighted in the usual marketing info but has the feature. And it’s only $175 for the basic scanner. Their maxicheck pro version is only $225.
Thanks for the help I’m taking it to a friend with a scanner on Monday I’ll let u know the outcome
