That picture was before I got it out.
Looks like you just have to push it into the hole while rotating it a little back and forth to break the friction. Making sure the inside of that hole is free of all rust and debris will help. Maybe give it a cleaning by wrapping a wooden dowel with some emery cloth. Lubing the o-ring a little before installing it is going to help too. From what I see engine oil is commonly used for that. Don’t over-tighten the bolt, check the service data for the torque specs to be sure. Make sure to take a careful look at the connector on the wiring harness. Might want to use a magnifying glass and flashlight, check to make sure there’s nothing untoward like bend pins or dirty or corroded contacts. Best of luck.
For removing it in the first place, that seems like a problem right from the start of the way it is designed. I’d guess some kind of shock method would probably be about the best you could do. You have to somehow break it away from the friction hold that develops over time and dirt and corrosion, without breaking the plastic. Something related to the slide hammer idea posted above by Barky. Maybe tie a wire around it the best you can and yank on that wire with the slide hammer. And it might just be impossible to remove a stuck one without doing what you did, break it apart. Maybe there’s a more systematic way to do it, using a drill or a small chisel or something. I had to chisel the drain valve on my building’s water heater the other day to get it to come out.
I’d do the dowel/emery cloth prep George mentioned. I use that method a lot for tough to reach areas. Just last weekend dressed up a cavity for a poppet valve on my OB using that technique. One bit of advice- make sure the emery cloth is far longer than the depth of the cavity so if it comes loose of the dowel, you can easily retrieve it. I just wrap the emery around the dowel and duct tape the top to the dowel and use my electric drill to spin it at an appropriate speed for the job at hand…
Maybe bottom left? (As shown on my screen)
I replaces the crankshaft sensor yesterday. The light did not go off. I didn’t really notice any missing. I took to autozone to have the light checked out again and it still coming up as code P0016. It also does give other probable cause from 1, intermittent connection, 2, failed crank or cam sensor, which I just changed both of them, and 3, engine mechanical condition. Today I will try to clean up all the connections on the engine and the grounds. I am doubtful that will do anything.
The intermittent connection could be poor wire somewhere but where?
as for engine mechanical condition, what could that be? Timing belt?
It could be that the engine control computer needs a few successful passes before it will remove the MIL condition. Do you have a code reader?
It got much worse today. I cleaned every connection I could find with contact cleaner. I cleaned up every ground with contact cleaner and took a wire brush to a couple that were rusty. The light was off for 1 mile and popped back on. Even before I cleaned them up it was starting to act up more. It not idles a lot higher. If you put it into neutral it will rev up quite a bit, at least to 3000 rpm. The cruise control also worked that first mile and the second the light came back on the cruise went out. But it revs so high its almost like having a cruise control on if driving in city. It will keep a 35 mph speed without touching the gas. Sometimes in neutral it will also rev up and down some. And when you shut it off it does seem to have a slight delay in shutting off. Maybe a slight cough or something like that for a second.
I believe it is either a bad wire, maybe slight possibly this could be it, or timing belt is getting worse and worse as miles go by. It does have 170,000 miles. It has been a good runner and has like 1 spot of rust about a size of a quarter. P0016 code comes up as likely problems being one of the 2 sensors I changed, a bad wire, or mechanical problems. Besides a timing belt what else could be mechanical problems. Could this be the start of something very serious like the engine needed to be changed serious? When this first happened it would go on for a while off for a while. After a short time it stayed on almost all the time. Now its all the time. Would a timing belt cause it to rev up?
Inspect the throttle body to manifold tube, it may have come loose.
The P0016 fault is very likely a problem with the camshaft position sensor or that it is not installed correctly. Did you install all 4 screws?
Yes i installed all 4 bolts and tighten them I also installed the 1 crankshaft sensor bolt. Would a throttle body part cause the check engine light to come on and the cruise control not to work? Would this cause the p0016 code to come up?
did you read my long message above the last one?
I am going to see about renting a timing light from auto zone. If the belt is bad then the timing should be off at least a little correct? But if that is the case it seems to me it would run poor all the time.
The high rev was from a bad vacuum line going to the back of the engine. That’s fixed.
It starts good and runs good when driving at a more normal pace. When you step it down is when it runs very poor. If I step it to the floor it will just sputter and move very little.
Could this be a symptom of a stretched out timing belt or a bad wire?
Tested all 2 wires from Cam sensor and Crank sensor for continuity from sensor to computer ECU ECM PCM box. All wires read 0 ohms. I found 2 of the wires on each are the same wire. So I am pretty certain it is not a wire problem, that seemed like a very unlikely chance.
I have not tested the timing yet, but I am confident it is not a mechanical problem. I know this because when every i unplug the cam sensor it resets itself and the light goes off for a good mile. During this first mile when the light is off the cruise control works, after a mile or so the light comes back on and at that second the cruise goes off. But I know its not a timing belt because before the light comes on the car does not have a touch of hesitation. If I put it to the floor it will not jerk and miss, if going 60 and i step it down it speeds up like it should. after that light comes on it misses like crazy if you put a heavy load on it, going fast. now if the timing belt was stretched it would do that from the first second check engine light or no light.
Perhaps its the computer, I have about run the course for what to check and will see about taking it somewhere.
I rented a better scan tool from autozone. It said turn wheel or pulse wheel may be damaged or have debris. I am going to take it off clean it up and take a look at it tomorrow.
Could be a bad connection at the connector to the ecm, or the ecm could have a cracked trace on its pcb. More likely tho problems with cam and crank position sensors are the sensors themselves, the distance between the sensor and the thing they sense is incorrect or the gap obstructed, or the thing the sensor senses is damaged.
I changed the interrupter, the magnet wheel behind the cam sensor, to see if that would do anything. The old one had a small crack in the plastic. It did nothing of course. So I took it out and put the old one back in and I also put the old cam sensor back in because there is nothing wrong with it. I dont know whats going on and I pretty much do not care anymore but something strange happened. The light stayed on for 25 miles but it ran perfect, no missing, cruise working. After that the light went off and has not been on for 35 miles. I am not going to worry about it. If the light come back I will take it somewhere. If it does not well then its done. Maybe God fixed it.
I expect the problem is fixed. A little jiggling here and there of the cam and crank sensor is all it needs. Those sensors are very sensitive to the gap space between the sensor and what it senses. I expect what happened is by removing and replacing that stuff, you’ve restored something to the proper gap. In any event, it’s found money. No need to wonder why, just enjoy your good luck!
Will do and thx
What’s that line from 1970’s Mary Tyler Moore tv show, about the clown? “A little song, a little dance, a little seltzer down your pants”. Forget scan tools, that’s all that darn sensor needed … lol …
last night the light came back on but it ran perfect. today the light went off again and still runs good. one time it did not want to start however. had the put the key in turn it over take the key out turn it over a few times until it started.