I replaced the front ac, heater fan motor, control, and resistor and it still won’ run.
Have you checked the 30 amp fuse in slot 14 under the hood ?
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Sounds like a whole lot of money was spent when a simple test light would have been much cheaper to start with… As It_s-Me stated
By your very limited post, I am guessing that the blower motor is not working???
If you decide to give us more info, please hit the reply button and not edit your OP as we don’t keep going back to see if something changed there…
Welcome to the forum
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As the blower motor ages the bearing/bushing dries out, not enough lube, making it harder to spin the motor and cage. This drag can cause an overcurrent condition, either blowing the circuit’s fuse or damaging the motor. Since you’ve already replaced the motor, and presumably verified the cage is spinning freely, hopefully the remaining problem is just the fuse. Standard automobile fuses are pretty easy to check with a volt meter. The fuse’s signal path is exposed by a metal pin on each side at the top of the fuse. One is the input to the fuse, the other is the output. The fuse is good if both pins measure battery voltage (appx 12 volts) when the circuit is powered.
Motor new, resistor new, controller new. Still the heater fan won’t run
New or not, it won’t work without electrical power. Check that next.
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2 post and we still don’t know if you have checked the fuses and relays???.. Or what other diagnostic checks you have done other than just throwing parts at it…
George is correct, you can throw $3,000 worth of parts at it but until you properly check it out and find the reason/cause of why it is not working, not the effects of it not working, you might as well be throwing darts at a dart board with a parts catalog attached to it…
Have you checked to see if the rear license plate is properly secured?
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