What’s price range for a blown rod when I press gas it starts knocking really bad
Probably more than the vehicle is worth . And you will just have to get estimates from a local shop where ever you are . Prices vary by region and the type of shop you use plus the other work that may be needed to make the engine replacement worth while.
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The title of the discussion needs to be “2005 Chevrolet Cavlier - Engine price”
Because that’s what you’re looking at
The only way it even comes close to making sense is if you get a smoking deal on a known good used engine and you do all the labor yourself
we’re talking removing the donor engine, your current engine, installing the donor engine and getting rid of your current engine
1/2 price weekend at pick a part would be a good chance to possibly get a used engine cheap. But you’ll be doing all the work yourself, and you need a pickup truck to load the used engine in. And you have to consider there’s no way for you to know the engine you’re getting is any good
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How have you confirmed it’s a bad rod. Usually when a rod fails in an obvious way it is pretty darn catastrophic.
An engine just about never needs ‘a rod’. Lots of other parts are damaged, no doubt.
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I am going to go against the grain here. If your engine hasn’t been knocking too long, the crankshaft journals might still be “close enough” that you could get away with changing the bearing inserts from underneath. If the oil pan can be removed while the engine is still in the car, this could be an option. Figure about $100 for parts and incidentals if you DIY.
If any of the crankshaft journals are severely gouged or ovaled out, replacing the bearings won’t be an option. In that case, you’re going to have to replace the crankshaft too, which means the engine has to come out of the car. At that point, a guaranteed used engine is cheaper and easier. For a common car like this, figure about $500-800 for the engine itself, and another $400 in parts and incidentals if you DIY.
If you don’t DIY, a shop can install a used engine for about $3000. I would only put that much money into the car if it’s in excellent condition, and has reasonably low miles. If there’s any rust or body damage, or if the car has more than 150,000 miles, forget about it. In that case, I’d just keep driving it until it blows, then have a junkyard haul it away.
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Was a guy here last yr who wanted to sand down the crank journals with the motor in car. Now there’s a good laugh. Think he had a 92 dodge shadow? Classic car there.
A stock rod costs about $35-50 bucks maybe. Installation and the repair of the bearings etc can be in the thousands however. Just like piston rings…
I always think of a funny story of a guy I came across who was telling me his engine only needs a new set of piston rings. He was happy at the low cost of the components his engine needed. I could do no more than smile and shake my head and tell him “good luck with all that”… Why are they hard to install or something? LOL
That was me, and the car is a 1993 Plymouth Sundance. It’s in my garage right now. I ended up replacing the crankshaft and bearings, and of course, gaskets, seals, etc. When time permits, I will have my friend assist me in re-attaching the motor to the transmission, and we will re-install the motor and transmission into the car. I actually do plan to register this car as a classic when it is running again.
It bothers me that any old car can be registered as a “classic”, The only ones I have seen with these plates are rolling junk. True classics tend to go with one of the other more than 120 choices.
Usually, the magic number for cars to reach this designation is 25 years. Some states, though, allow cars to be classified as antique or classic in just 20 years, while others require it to be older. In Florida, for example, vehicles must be at least 30 years old to qualify for antique or historic designation.
I knew more than one guy that spent a freezing night under the car with a trouble light putting in new bearings. Still I don’t recall the cars lasting that much longer but it helped.