2004 Infinity I35 dead battery?

A story about what killed the battery…

My last Dr visit I took the Infinity and noticed that the cruse control was not working, the green light lite up on the dash when you turned it on, but would not set, or show the green set light. I thought maybe it will reset or something and it will work on the way home, hey nothing wrong with crossing your fingers, well we all know that didn’t happen and still no CC, thought about it a little bit and decided I would mess with it later, well kinda forgot about it, the car has also been outside the garage in the driveway.

So a week later I decided to go get fast food and when I went out to the car I noticed the door locks didn’t work using the FOB, thought it’s an old car might just be a dead FOB, nope, the car battery was deader than a door nail… Later on I had my son bring up his booster and as soon as he hooked it up it said dead battery and would not work, so I said just pull it and I will charge it up… DVOM showed 0.01 volts…

This is the vehicle that I pulled out of a 1.5-2 year storage with a dead battery that I was able to get charged back up after the charger went into desulfate mode, it worked all winter in 20F weather and even been starting fine on these upper 90F days, again an outside car, so I was a little puzzled why it died like that, was thinking current draw or something I was going to have to track down…

So 1st charge it got up to 55% and cut off saying bad battery, I tried it again after about 30ish minutes and went into desulfate mode again and it charged it up to 100%, left it alone for a week and checked and it was showing 85% sitting in the melt your face off garage temps, so I hit start again and then we lost power for a while, so I unplugged it and checked a few days later and it was showing 12.58 with my DVOM, so we installed it and I decided to move some crap around in the garage and pull it inside, well my gut told me to check the charging system, and it was not charging and voltage was dropping…
So I thought the alternator took a crap…

Then I thought maybe this car has a safe mode for the alternator, checked on line as well as had my buddy check into it at work, and we could not find anything showing it had a fail safe mode, so shut the hood and started to head inside and I noticed the brake lights were on, and looked down and saw part of a rubber stop, looked up at the brake pedal lever and sure enough both rubber stops were no longer there, had my son press the switch in and the brake lights turned off… unhooked the battery and just replaced it (EDIT to say new battery) today and all is well again so far…

So the cruse control not working was the ASCD cancel switch rubber stop that broke and fell out and then the stop lamp switch rubber stop broke right afterwards and killed the battery… Just thought I would share…

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Sounds to me like you need a new battery. The one you have is on its way out.

The neighbor across the street has a minivan, when I was taking the trash out I notice the tail/brake lights appeared to be on. Knocked on their door, father answered the door, I told him about the lights, he called to his son, “I think we have found out why your battery keeps dying”.

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Yeah, but what killed the battery? If I read the original post correctly, the parasitic draw caused by the missing switch stops made the battery drain. It’s always somethin, right @davesmopar?

That’s funny, you caught me, I had to edit it, forgot that part but yes I replaced it with a new battery… Oops,…

Yes the rubber stop dry rotted and fell out allowing the stop/brake light switch to default to the on position therefor killing the battery… So it was the brake lights that killed the battery…

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