Sorry was not trying to call anyone dumb. some people are book smart, like my daughter. she is a lawyer. my son is an electrician. he seems to be more common-sense smart. I am not saying he is dumb because he is not. he was always a straight A student. but he seems to have more common sense than my daughter. one is not better than the other except when it comes to fixing cars. my son can figure it out. my daughter would just call me or pay someone. sorry if someone was offended.
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As long as I’m near some bushes, a field or pretty much anything I can run into I always have a way to stop. I’ve faced tougher battles in the past. Gotta learn to live m8. I got my doctorate at the same place Dr.Dre got his, surely you’ve heard of him and his practice.
Compton, CA?
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Now, please, back to the brakes.
I think the mechanics that do the work will find a number of problems. Please let us know what they find. I suspect many components will require replacement.
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I jacked the back up and both wheels spin freely (maybe too freely I think the drums need adjusted).
I put the parking brake on then jacked up the front passenger side after of course putting it in neutral and I noticed the hub wants to budge if I move it with my hand but the rotor isn’t going anywhere. The caliper is stuck/seized isn’t it? How do I approach this?
Start by cracking open the bleeder valve.
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Unless the bleeder is playing an elaborate game of hide-n-seek it’s proper pronouns are was/were. car
If you can not find the bleeder valve, you approach it by having the car towed to a shop.
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Your video doesn’t show the back of the caliper in the area where the brake line connects. That’s where the bleeder is.
You mean right here where this void is?
If memory serves me correctly, it was crushed/broken off after a family member did a break job for it. (had to disconnect the brake line to bleed it) It wouldn’t budge at all at the time. I remember seeing red crap on the piece that broke off (assuming it was loctite, why on earth anyone would do that is beyond me) (probably 8 or 10 years ago)
Duly noted.
Yep, “was” is the correct term. With the caliper innards being exposed to the air for several years, I would go ahead and replace the caliper. Start by removing the brake line. Soak the bolt with penetrating oil. Also soak the mounting bolts for the caliper itself.
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This is a case of where ’ break job ’ is correct since someone broke the bleeder valve off. 
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from what I have read this is not a job that you will be doing yourself being a family member did it last time. if this is a vehicle you are going to keep and being you have a lot of problems with the brake system. why not have it towed and let the Pro’s take care of it.
Last time I was in high school and working on cars wasn’t something that passed my mind. Everybody has to start somewhere. This vehicle will be replaced in a year or two. If funds were available for towing/labor I probably wouldn’t be driving a car back and forth to work that leaks a quart of oil a week (doesn’t smoke) and I wouldn’t be coming to a forum called “car talk” where I assumed “Pro’s” occasionally congregate. The problem has been identified. I’ll certainly be considering having it towed but I come to you humbly. Please teach me how to go super saiyan and switch into parts changer mode.
Touche my friend. 
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The broken bleeder explains the mushy brake pedal. There’s most likely air in the brake lines. I’d recommend biting the bullet and just buying and replacing both front calipers if you’re going to do it yourself. Brakes and shocks and the like are best replaced in sets.
Hopefully the soft brake line leading to the calipers isn’t collapsed. You could buy those also just to be sure and be done with it. The lines/hoses generally aren’t that pricey. I’d go ahead and get new pads too. Most likely you can get by with the rotors “as is”, but it would be ideal to have them turned or replace them.
if it were me, I would replace both front caliper, rotors, brake lines, and brakes. I would drain all the green brake fluid out of the system and replace with new fluid. then I would bleed the whole system. starting with the right rear, then the left rear, right front and then left front. do not let the brake reservoir go empty when draining the fluid out. just keep adding until the green fluid is out and you can see clean fluid coming out. if it runs dry you will then need to bleed the master cylinder too.
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also search youtube to see how each job is done. it is better to see it being done than someone try to tell you.
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