+1 @Barkydog. It does sound like a suspension issue.
You are probably right. I do think the more I drive it the worse it vibrates and shake at certain speeds. It will star at 40 and quit when you speed up, it will start again at 57, then quit when you speed up and at 65 it gets bad again.Sometimes when you are first starting off it will start. I will have to find a mechanic who can pin point the problem.( I HOPE) The engines still sounds like it is idle to high. Before we had the brakes and mounts put on the engine was quieter and you could hardly tell it was running, but that is not the case now. It just does not make sense. I am so disappointed that the problem can not be found. I will start again Monday. Church tomorrow. I still can not believe it started when we put new brakes on the car and replace the two front motor mounts.
henri, you always start with when the problem started. Tell me about the brake job. Was it front only, rear only or all four wheels. Are the rear brakes disk brakes and if so, were the rear rotors removed and either resurfaced or replaced? Were the front rotors resurfaced or replaced?
Do you have a second vehicle? Have someone else drive your car at the speed where the vibration is occurring while you look at the wheels, either from another vehicle, or standing on the side of the road as your car is driven by. Look for a wheel that is either wobbling or bouncing up and down.
If it is bouncing up and down, you have a bad strut on that corner. If it is wobbling, then I’d be inclined to look at the rotor for that wheel, either it is not flush with the hub because of some debris behind it, it was not cut right or it is out of balance.
The back brakes are disc brakes. The new brakes pads were put on all the way around. Front and back rotors were resurface. When you say the rotor could be out of balance do you mean we need a new rotor? Would the Road Force balance not correct that problem? If it is a rotor, would you suggest having it resurface again or buy a new one. Would you put a used rotor off another car on it if it was good? (Same type car lol) Will have this check tomorrow. Thanks Can I tie my husband to the fender of the car and let him look at the tires while i drive the car down the road at these speeds> lol ( 2003 Honda accord) Romans 8:28
Never use brakes from another car.
If they resurfaced the rotors off the car, then it is unlikely that they are out of balance, but they could get cut with a wobble or they could have something trapped between the rotor and the hub when they were reinstalled. Since the tires are balanced (and road force) off the car, the rotors remain on the car, the balance and road force do not correct anything on the rotors.
If you tie your husband to the fender, be sure to remove his belt or else the buckle will scratch the paint. It would probably be better to put him in a lawn chair by the side of a little used road and drive by him a couple of times.
You can’t use a rotor from another vehicle and you can only resurface a rotor once, but many times when you compare the price of a resurfacing the rotor vs buying a new one, you’ll just get a new one.
@henri if you put your husband “in a lawn chair by the side of a little used road” make sure he hasn’t polished off too many 6-packs before driving past him.
Thanks LOL You guys are funny. Thanks for the info. He does not drink anyway. I guess a woman with a car that shakes and vibrates could drive a man to drink. Romans 8:28
She doesn’t need a car that shakes and vibrates.
Hi again. I took my car to auto tire and transmission place and the mechanic drove the car and told us He did not feel we could get the car to ride any smoother than it was. .So I let him sit on the passengers side while I drove the vehicle. I knew you could feel the shaking or whatever in the seat. He said He felt the difference but it would not bother him. I think he is nuts.
I will try another Shop. I think all the mechanics in this part of town know one another. You can tell them who work on it when the problem started and they will say they don’t find anything wrong. Sound odd to you? Does to me.
I took it back to the first guy that put on the brakes and new motor mounts and He said He felt it and it wasn’t right but He did not know what to do next. At least He was honest about that part of it. Like I said I will find someone who knows or sell it to one of these guys that don’t know a shake, vibration or wobble when they feel one. I would like to keep my car and get it fixed. but…Any more suggestions
I took my car Saturday to another shop. Guy balance all 4 tires again. He said one tire had too many weights on the tire. He said who ever balance it last time had to put all those weights on to get it to balance out.(Thinks we need a new wheel ) He said He balance the tire and put it back on the car. It is still shaking. Could this mean a bad wheel? Since He balance all the tires the car is shaking more than ever now. He said to bring it back if we had any problems, so I guess it will go back tomorrow. It is shaking in front and back. He even mention the rotors could be some of the problem if they were not turn right the first time.
What I can not understand is they all tell me they are balance, but the car still does the vibration and shaking. The balance he did was just regular balancing. It is now like it was after we had the brakes put on in Jan. and the rotors turn. I am so disappointed. 2003 Honda Accord V6 Please some advice. Could it be rotors and needing a new wheel?
It’s a long shot, but it may possibly help you narrow the possibilities by exchanging the most suspect wheel / tire with your spare or another from the same type vehicle. If the problem changes when you do that, then that could lead to an answer. You might need to try all the wheels, one at a time, to see if the problem changes at all. If it does, then it’s probably related to the wheels, tires, or balancing. If that doesn’t make any difference, then you can probably rule out wheels and tires. Given the ongoing issue and what must be increasing frustration, it might be worth buying a pair of used wheels at a salvage yard, mounting decent used tires on them, and trying that to see if the problem changes. Are your tires all matched? If not, that might be a factor, but they’d have to be radically different to make this kind of issue.
I haven’t noticed what kind of shops you are going to, but it seems you are not getting satisfaction from any of them since your problem remains. Have you tried a shop specializing in alignment and suspension? If you live in a city, it’s possible there are such specialists and it’s perhaps likely that they might spot something wrong which others have been missing. That’s the step I’d take next, before anything else.
I’d also wonder about cv joints. I have had experience with shaking being caused by a bad cv joint even though there was no clicking, which is generally the classic symptom of a bad cv joint. I’m assuming though that this has been checked, but maybe not carefully enough. In my case, the shaking came only on acceleration, and disappeared as soon as I let off the gas.
Also, I’d suggest trying the advice Keith gave about driving with an observer in another car:
Have someone else drive your car at the speed where the vibration is occurring while you look at the wheels, either from another vehicle. Maybe you can see something wrong with one of the wheels, some kind of motion which shouldn't be there.
Hope this helps somewhat.
The car uses a space saver spare. Switch front and rear tires. If you laready did that, switch right side to left side.
Thanks guy. I will try this.
I have bought 4 Yokohama tires. When I had the old tires rotated and balance, I was told the tires were wearing and if I was planning on a long trip I might need to get them check. So I bought 4 new ones. The Problem with the shaking and vibration started when I had all new brakes put on and the rotors turn.
They find a broken motor mount, so they replaced the front two mounts also.
I do appreciate all of your help. Would not want to get rid of my car. Thanks for your help
Hi Guys Since March 25th I have had my new tires rotated front to back to back side to side. Balance 3 times. 2 different places. I have taken my car to a specialist and he couldn’t seem to feel the vibration Hmmm. I even drove the car at the speed the vibration or shaking started and he did not seem to think it was anything to be concern about. Well I tell you if he is not to concern about that kind of problem he does not need to work on my car.
I took it this week and had a transmission mount put on and another cv axle on right front. I now have 2 new cv axles, 4 new tires, all new mounts, a new brake job all around, turn rotors, 2 motor mounts, 1 new wheel and new alignment., and several balance jobs. I still have the problem of vibrations or shaking in seat of car and steering wheel at speed of 55 to 60 mph. The shimmy on take off is less but when you drive the car a while the shake becomes more so at the speed of 55 to 60 mph.
We are wondering if the rotors might need to be replaced. Everyone tells us the new tires are good tires. We also had a recall on the Honda fixed at the Honda place, It had to do with the power steering. I have not drove the car at a greater speed yet. I wanted to get some advice from you all. Everyone who has work on it or drove it keeps telling me to just drive it. I am just put out on the attitude of folks. It is not there car and there money either. I don’t know what to try next. Any Advice? The front rotors have been turn twice. The problem did not start until I had the new brakes put on, the rotors turned and the 2 motor mounts installed. I think it has to be in there somewhere, but no one thinks a brake job could cause that. Oh remember guys I had the tires road force balance, well I took it back to the shop where I bought the tires and they told me the tires were out of balance and balance them again. Well that did not help so I took it to another place and they told me the tires were out of balance and balance them again. I do not think it is my tires. By the time we find the problem ,these tires will be balance several times. Funny Ain’t it.
Its not funny when you are the one that has to live with it. Has anyone used a dial index gauge to measure the runout of the wheels or the rotors on the vehicle yet? You are not going to get to the bottom of this until someone does that. This has to be done on the vehicle, not off.
I think Keith is spot-on. It’s time to find eomeone who’ll actually do some diagnosis rather than just a test ride. That includes measuring lateral runout of the brakes AND wheels as well as roundness measurements of the rims. Also, you made an earlier comment about how one tech said someone had used too many weights. And every time you bring the tires in they tell you that they’re out of balance. While slight variations would not be abnormal, that suggests that somethiung is wrong with the tires. Perhaps the pressure monitors (if you have the inside-the-wheel type) are loose and free-floating. Perhaps there was ice in the tires when they mounted them. Perhaps they have a laminate seperation.
I’d suggest that the discs and wheels be measure to ensure they’re true and round, the bearings be checked, and the tires be dismounted, the rims and tires checked, and the tires remounted and rebalanced. I know it’s a lot, especially with what you’ve already been through, but the source of the vibration is going to have to be a process of eliminating possible contributors.
Most of the other possible contributors including CV joints and engine mounts have already been addressed here, and all need to be rechecked.
One thing that hasn’t been considered is engine operation. Has anyone checked for good and even compression? Anyone looked for good and even vacuum? Anyone put the engine on a scope to check the ignition? I noticed you’d had mounts changed; could it be engine operation that caused the mounts to be suspect?
You need a mechanic that has a tool like this one, although theirs may have a magnetic base instead of vice grips
I use a more professional version to check rotor runout at work. Sometimes the measured runout is so great, that I know ahead of time that I won’t be able to cut rotors without being undersize.
A must have tool.