I changed the starter and the ignition connector and the battery is charged car won’t turn over need help with problem
Car would not crank with starter #1. U replace it with starter #2. Maybe ur starter was ok to begin with? Might be an ignition switch, relay, battery cable, or so on
@solblackguy
I understand your engine isn’t starting
Are you saying the starter will not even crank the engine over?
If that is the case, you need to check your oil level. If it’s severely low, that may have something to do with your problem of the engine not turning over
If the oil level is fine, I’d try to turn the engine over by hand, using a large socket and long 1/2" drive breaker bar. Put the socket on the front crank bolt and try to turn it clockwise
Please explain what you mean with “ignition connector”
How old is that battery, anyways?
If it’s over 5 years old, it’s time for a new one
It is possible to charge a bad battery, then when you ask it to do anything, it just conks out. Might want to get it tested, if in doubt. Just because it has 12.6 Volts doesn’t mean it’s good. Most of those parts stores will test it for free. It’s up to you if trust their results, though
I put a new ignition relay on the car
What volts does the battery show during the attempt to crank?
Battery connections are the first place to begin when you have a “No Crank” situation. Even
if you have a new battery, if the connections are loose, dirty or corroded, you will not be
allowing the full flow of current to pass thru the connections. The connection may be
enough to turn on the lights, but not enough for the huge flow that is needed to operate the
starter. This is where many people say that they know the battery is good….”because the
lights come on”. This is no more a battery test than licking a 9volt battery. It only tells you that there is electricity…not how many volts or the amperage that flows from the battery.
Jump starting may have wiggled the terminal just enough to allow the current to pass and start the engine, but tomorrow you have the same problem.
First remove the cables from the battery and use a wire brush to remove any corrosion and dirt from the battery posts and the cable terminals. There is a tool with a round wire brush for this purpose, found at any auto parts store for less than $10 http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/kd-tools-terminal-battery-brush-kdt201/25980576-P?searchTerm=terminal+brush.
Before connecting the cables, apply a coating of di-electric grease to the battery posts this will keep oxygen away from the connection so that it will not corrode as fast.
It is just as important that the other end of the cables also have a clean connection. Remove the positive cable from the battery again so that you do not short anything out. Follow both cables to their far ends, remove this connection and wire brush the connection and the cable terminal clean and retighten these connections.
If there was work done recently, there may have been an “engine to body” ground that was not installed following the work. These grounds normally run from the rear of the engine to the firewall and are uninsulated and most are a braided wire. If any of these are found unattached…reattach them.
Remember….this is not a “Sherman Tank” don’t over tighten the connections.
Tight…tight………………too tight…broke!!!
Yosemite