i may be purchasing a used 2001-2002 mercury sable and would like to know of any issues with the vehicle
Even with a Crystal Ball that question can’t be answered on a 24 year old vehicle . Find an independent auto shop and pay them to inspect the vehicle . If the seller will not allow that then moveon to something else.
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Mr Volve nailed it, on any used vehicle, but especially an older one, always get a shop of Your choice to do a full inspection including pulling the wheels, checking all fluids, brakes, suspension, steering, frame structure, frame and body rust, brake and fuel lines for rust, brake hoses, etc etc etc…
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A pre-purchase inspection is a great idea when purchasing a used car. Suggest to let the inspector decide what to inspect and not inspect. They can’t inspect everything. As a buyer I would insist that all the emissions readiness monitors are in the “complete” state. If there’s one or more in the “incomplete” state & the seller tells you the car just needs to be driven some more to get those to complete, tell the seller to do that themselves. You, as the buyer, don’t want to be in the position of having to get them all to complete.
knucklehead diyer, opinion, no 2001 sable experience.
Test drive it up a long steep hill with the heater temp turned down all the way. If a warning light comes on, turn the heat up and hope you make it home. If it needs a new radiator it will cost you and a week later the heater core will pop and leak. On an old car like that you must remember that FORD OWNERS RARELY DRIVE. Then there’s all the other problems that cause a $200 car to become a $2000 car or the $2001 car. Yes I know it’s a Merc.
The Mercury Sable was just a fancier version of the contemporaneous Ford Taurus. The Taurus twin was a popular car, and aftermarket parts are still readily available. These are still somewhat common on the road today.
Stick to the 3-liter OHV V6 Vulcan
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A 24 year old vehicle will be exactly as good or as bad as the last 24 years of maintenance and repairs. Any known issues, pattern failures, or common problems will probably have been ironed out or updated by now. My wife had a 2001 Sable bought in 2001, she drove the car for 15 years with no major issues outside of warranty (it did get a new torque converter under warranty) and then I drove it for 2 years before selling it to a college kid. It was a great car.
My wife’s (and later my) 01 Sable had the 3.0 DOHC and I would take that engine over the Vulcan any day. Having said that, the Vulcan is a durable, reliable workhorse, but underwhelming in performance.
We had a 1987 3L V6 Taurus and the engine was never a problem. It was also peppy compared to other similar sedans and comfortable. @bcohen2010 would like this car. At this point I think the sales price for similar Taurus and Sable cars would be the same. IIRC Abraham Lincoln was ferried around in a1987 Sable. 
Agreed with all the other posts.
And, see here:
I agree but would add that where the car was operated during its life has a big impact as well. Lots of snow/slush and salt is hard to combat. Around here, a 24 year old car is on its last legs even if you are fastidious about care and maintenance. Stuff just rusts out. Conversely, 24 years old in an arid climate? Probably looks like new underneath (paint may look like h@ll though 
).
Yeah, a frame that could be used as aluminum foil is probably not a good buy… 
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+1
Consider the case of this Ford Focus from the same era. When you look at the brief video, bear in mind that the owner was still driving this rolling death sentence 
You can actually get 20+ years out of a car, where you live??? I grew up in northern IL, and lived there for 27 years. If you got 15 years out of a car, you were doing well. They just rusted away. I remember our 1988 Toyota Corolla, and our 1991 Toyota Camry, buth excellent and reliable cars, both had to be junked in the early 2000s due to severe rusting. Even my father’s 1993 Caprice had noticeable rust by the time I moved away in 2007.
I am glad I live in southern AZ now, and cars don’t rust here. Models which are extinct in cold northern climates are still driving around here.
Put your money where your mouth is
Heed your own advice
You should be buying up ALL tge 1997 - 2001 Toyota Camrys available for sale
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I don’t need another vehicle right now. And I have seen quite a few interesting models offered for sale recently. Someone posted a 1991 Dodge Spirit with the 3.0L engine, a few weeks ago, which is a car that I have wanted for a long time. And now, someone just posted a 1995 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera with the non-power options and a 4-cylinder engine. It’s in excellent condition, and the price is reasonable, but ultimately, I just don’t have space to park another vehicle right now.
I can tell you, however, if someone posts a 1997-1998 Toyota Camry “CE” with the non-power options and automatic transmission, I will JUMP on it, and get rid of one of my other vehicles to make space for it.
That reminds me, have you figured out your intermittent no crank condition?
No. I tried to start the car Monday night when it was cold, and it didn’t start. I drove it on Thursday when I got home from work, and it was warmer, and I drove it yesterday, and it started ok. I assume it’s the starter solenoid, and I will probably just replace the starter since the part is cheap enough. It’s somewhat of a pain to get to from underneath.
When it’s not cranking over . . . . are you at least getting power at the appropriate starter terminals?
Being an early 90’s Corolla-owning knucklehead diyer, I can’t offer any learned opinions about your Camry. But on my car , while the factory service instructions say to remove the starter from below, it is possible & much easier imho for a diy’er to remove it from above.