2001 Ford Escape has blown up 3 egr valves this week...please help my dealer find the problem

Help! Need help to determine which type of fuel pump the 2001 Escape V6 has: (1) returnable fuel pump; or,(2) mechanical returnless fuel pump; or,(3) electronic returnless fuel pump.
My Haynes, online Chilton’s, online alldata don’t clarify which one is on the 2001 Escape V6. I don’t have access to other references.
I don’t have the OP’s truck in hand, so I can’t look at the fuel pump to determine if it has: (1) the single fuel tube of the electronic returnless fuel pump; or,(2) the fuel pressure regulator mounted on the fuel pump module of the mechanical returnless fuel pump; or, the (3) return-type fuel pump with the fuel pump regulator on the fuel rail.

I assume that if there is a Fuel Pressure & Temperature (FP&T) Sensor on the engine fuel line, that FP&T sensor indicates that the fuel pump is an electronic returnless type; but, I’m not sure. Does the 2001 Escape V6 have this electronic returnless fuel pump?

Hellokit (responder)

Better minds than mine are stumped here, so I won’t stick my neck out too far on this one, but possibly,could the combination of rich mixture, low/pulsing manifold vacuum, and exhaust scavenge move fuel from the intake back to the EGR?

I have a feeling that we’ll only solve this one by sticking our necks out.

I’m still thinking both a source of sufficiently rich fuel entering into the exhaust AND a source of ignition to cause a powerful explosion. I just don’t see rich operation as providng both of these elements. I’m still wondering if an exhaust valve is somehow sticking open, the compression stroke pushing fuel into the exhaust, and the spark plug igniting it, the combustion shooting past the open valve and into the exhaust.

It takes one heck of a bang to blow the EGR valve up and collapse the ceramic substrate in the converter.

tundraSQ,
Come on! 'municate wid us! We are so close to nailing this critter to de wall, and you do Houdini. America holds its collective breath for you to speak. You don’t want it to turn blue in its collective face, do you?

My brothers car had the same thing happen today. Ford told me when i called that it was common if a cylinder was misfiring to back up the cat which would cause back pressure at the egr and melt a hole from excessive heat and pressure. Does that sound right?

Hey everyone, just blew the EGR Valve in my 2002 Ford Escape today and through some googling found this page…

Last week my car was running rough and I took it in for a computer diagnostic and it came back as the #3 Cylinder was misfiring and the Coil and possibly the spark plug were bad, the car goes in tomorrow but I have still been driving it some.

Today, the car seemed to go into “limp mode” and wouldnt go above 3000ish RPM’s and 35mph, and shortly after a air leak noise started from the engine bay, so I took it straight home (about 1/4 miles), popped the hood, and saw the EGR valve had blown.

From reading this, I thought I would share my experience, and I’m kinda leaning toward what had been discussed about un-burnt fuel being re-circulated through the EGR because of the non-firing cylinder and blowing out the side of it. The actual EGR aluminum part has been blown outward, like in the thread starters case. Tomorrow it goes in to have the Coil and all 6 plugs replaced, and see what our mechanic has to say about the EGR Valve… But I did find one on Ebay for $15 shipped.

Thanks for joining us. Hopefully we’ll get some answers from both yourself and the OP after your respective mechanics have found the root cause.

Sorry for the delay in responding…as the dealer had my car for almost two weeks i had nothing to report. Here is where i stand…

I picked up the vehicle saturday 1 week ago…i politely told them that i was not going to pay the bill for the replacement fuel pump $380, until i was 100% sure the problem was solved. He agreed and gave me one week to make the payment.

I drove from there to work about 20 miles, and then home…all was good, but it was all good last time for the first week.

Monday i drove about 150 miles all good…but the whole time i thought the brakes were feeling spongy…but blowing the EGR valve caused me to have almost no brakes…so i figured maybe it was just air in the lines. I was focused on the engine, not the brakes.

Tuesday driving home…at this point i have about 200 miles on the vehcile since repair and i was stopping at a stop light and the brakes just went to the floor, like my front brakes were gone…brake warning came on and CEL came on…

I limped home and parked it for the week…i put some brake fluid in…and the brake light went away…but i still have no brakes.

I have no idea what i am going to do next…

Its bad to move this thread from a EGR problem to a brake problem. How low was the resivoir?(was it empty?)just being low will not cause you to have no brakes. Do you suspect a brake fluid leak? No connection between your EGR problem and your brake problem.Perhaps you state why you see a connection between the EGR and the brakes.Stay focused on the brakes(while driving,not in this thread).

I can’t believe that replacing the fuel pump has fixed the problem of the EGR valve being explosively (and literally) burst. We were told that the fuel pump pressure was far too high. The fix was to change the fuel pump?!!! That, still, doesn’t make sense.
The fuel pump output pressure is controlled by signals from the engine computer (PCM). The PCM knows what the fuel pressure is from the signal it receives from the FP&T sensor (Fuel Pressure & Temperature), in the fuel line, on the engine.
Now, it’s possible the real cause was found (unknowlingly?) but, somebody had to pay for the fuel pump; so, the cover-phrase would be, “That part was bad, also”, when, it wasn’t.

I’m not going to ask for brake assistance here…i only brought it up to give an update of the car. I will drive it to my regular mechanic and have that fixed. And then drive another week with the car before paying for the fuel pump.

I was told that the fuel pump had the fuel pressure regulator built into it…and that is why he had to replace it. I plan on bringing the car in to have brake work done by my regualr mechanic (noh the dealer) I will have him look it over…

Well you can at least tell us why you think your brake problem is related to your EGR problem,we have been working with you on this.

Here is a drawing, from Auto Zone’s site, of the Fuel Pressure & Temperature sensor. Ask your mechanic to look at the engine and tell us if he sees this sensor on your engine, or not: http://www.autozone.com/autozone/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?fromSearchPage=true&pageId=0900c152801e9035&partName=Fuel+Pressure%26Temperature+Sensor&partId=0900c152801e9035
Also, ask your mechanic if he sees this Fuel Pressure Regulator on your truck: http://www.autozone.com/autozone/catalog/parts/partsShelf.jsp?categoryDisplayName=Fuel+Delivery&fromType=parts&fromString=search&parentId=cat10007&currentPage=1&filterByKeyWord=fuel+pressure+and+temperature+sensor&navValue=14901183&categoryNValue=14999999&fromWhere=&itemId=prod11467&displayName=Fuel+Tank+Pressure+Sensor&searchText=fuel+pressure+and+temperature+sensor

Sorry, i was thinking i was not supposed to bring this into the mix…but when my egr valve blew and i was driving home, one of the problems with driving that the blown egr valve caused was that the brake pedal would go to the floor before grabbing. I was told this was because the brake pressure was vacuum controlled, and was somehow tied into the vacuum system with the egr valve…so the hole in the egr affected the brake pressure. This does not seem to have been addressed when egr valve was re-replaced this time…even though i told the dealer that the blown egr valve affected my brakes.

The EGR has its vacuum source and the brake boster has its vacuum source not the same,I can’t see where this could go. I don’t think the Dealer would deliver you your car with the boster inoperative,how could they test drive it? Certainly if they released your car to you with the boster inop you would have been told,this is dangerous.

You are relating your poor brake system performance to both “air in the lines” and no vacuum to the boster,not making sense.

Hi all,

Just like RTibbitts07, my EGR valve (in my 2002 Ford Escape) blew and I found this thread on Google. I’ve noticed poor milage since I bought the truck last year (I’ve been getting 175 miles on average per 15 gallon tank). While I was driving on the highway yesterday, the car would not go past 40 miles while I was driving up a hill even though I was flooring the gas pedal. After I stopped at a light and started driving again, I noticed the car (automatic) woudn’t change into third gear and was at about 5000 rpm. I took my foot off the gas completely and when I stepped back on the gas, the gear changed and I started hearing the “whooshing of air” begin with every acceleration. When I got to my in-laws house, my father-in-law and I opened up the hood and found that the EGR valve had a hole blown right through it just like you guys have. We’ll be getting a replacement from Ford tomorrow and installing it. What else do I need to check? Sounds like I need to have the fuel pressure, exhaust, and or catalytic converter checked. Regardless, it’s been a really educating experience reading this thread and I look forward to hearing all the results!

Thanks

Did you also experience loss of braking power or notice any influence on the brake system?

Not at all…at least not that I noticed.

Here are the testing instructions for test the Fuel Rail Pressure and Temperature Sensor that the dealer says is not involved in controlling fuel pressure. Ask your mechanic to test this sensor: http://www.autozone.com/autozone/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?fromSearchPage=true&pageId=0900c152801e8f59&partName=Fuel+Rail+Pressure%26Temperature++FRPT++Sensor&partId=0900c152801e8f59