I’ve been having battery issues for two weeks. Wake up every morning and have to jump it. Once started for the day it would start and stop just fine all day. I was driving yesterday and battery light pops on so I left it running while eating lunch. Came back and the van was dead. Wouldn’t crank so I bought a new battery across the street, installed it, and now it turns over great! However, it won’t start. Gave it a shot of ether and it ran. So fuel it is. I swapped the fuel pump relay with no change so I got out my volt meter and tested the relay box slots and they only read 2.5-3v. All the literature and YT videos say it should be 12v.
Yes, plan to replace the alternator once you grt it running. Thst is why the battery light was on.
Next problem. Any hot connection in the fuse box should read battery voltage minus a small amount. Figure 11.9 to 12.3 if the battery reads 12.7 volts. The stsrter spins well so the bug battery cable is ok, there is a smaller one that feeds the van ? (Don’t abbreviate, I will assume T&C means Town and Country but who knows?) Work back from the fuse box towards the battery to find what is likely a corroded connection.
I had a problem w/low voltage at the fuel pump on my old VW Rabbit. It was caused by a problem w/the thing you plug the fuel pump relay into, the relay plate. The connections were corroded and the heat damaged the relay plate internals. Replacing the relay box was one option, but this was a known problem and the dealership fixed it by changing the wiring harness to bypass the relay plate for those signals.
This problem is sort of like when the tv weatherman says you can’t drive from point a to point b. They don’t tell you why though. If you want to know why you have to start at point a and move toward point b until you discover the problem. Ask you tech to trace the circuit. YOu know you have 12 volts at the battery, and only 2.5 volts later. Somewhere between the battery and that point there’s a problem in the wire harness or other connections.
Since fuses usually provide power to more than one device I would assume that the fuse for the fuel pump relay is good. If you haven’t checked that fuse it would still be a good thing to do. If it is good then you most likely have a wire connection problem between the fuse and the relay socket. If the relay is also inside the power distribution panel it should be pretty easy to find the problem.
Check fuse 17. Remove fuel pump relay. Check for battery voltage at pin 87 in distribution box side with ground to - battery with ignition on run. If no voltage repair circuit from ignition to distribution center. If there’s voltage jump 87 and 30 terminal. Pump should run, check pressure. If pump don’t run unhook connector to fuel pump at gas tank. Check for voltage at connector with dark blue, orange stripe wire. If no voltage, repair wiring between pump and distribution center. If there’s voltage, check ground at black with orange strip wire at pump connector. If there’s voltage and ground, replace pump. If pump ran with proper pressure when jumping 87 and 30, remove jumper. Check for voltage at 86 and battery ground. With key to run. If no voltage, repair circuit between ignition switch and distribution center. If there is voltage, do not test pin 85. It goes to PCM. Unhook C3 connector from PCM, check the wire integrity of brown wire that goes to pin 37 at PCM to distribution center pin 85 . You should have found the problem by now. You should find a wire diagram to confirm my wire colors, and it will help you to understand exactly what you are doing.
There is 12v at 87 when ground to battery. I tried jumping terminals 87 and 30, but there wasn’t any noise coming from the pump. The pump is less than a year old so it may still be under warranty. I haven’t dropped the tank yet, but will do this weekend to check the voltage at the pump connector. Thanks guys.