What would cause a 9.28amp drain on a parked truck…50,750 original miles. Wnet thru most all 20-15-10-5 amp fuses.Did not locate drain.
Why only most?? Why would a 30, 60 whatever amp fuse not have a current draw??
I always tell anyone to check EVERY fuse, also check relays and any circuit you can interrupt fairly easy at 1st…
Just have to put in the work to find it… Or take it to a competent shop or automotive electrical shop…
Thanks,guess I quit to soon🤣
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there are diodes in the alternator. if one of them goes bad, it will cause a parasitic drain and kill the battery.
it will also cause heat so with the engine off and cold, if the alternator is warm there is a bad diode in it causing your drain.
also check to see if your brake lights are staying on. a defective brake light switch will cause that. sometimes it will happen intermittently
. The BEST Way TO Perform a Parasitic Draw Test (youtube.com)
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For a battery drain that big, and no lights on anywhere inside the car or outside, my 1st guess is the same as WW’s above, alternator fault. Second guess , starter motor fault. The fuses in those two circuits are generally “fusible links” & often have larger current ratings than the fuses you’ve been checking. Some caution is in order w/this problem b/c the heat generated (roughly 120 watts) could potentially start a car fire.
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I’m no expert on this problem, but that seems like a big drain. And so maybe an easier one to find.
That is ENORMOUS
Are you sure you didn’t make a typo?
Are you sure it isn’t a 95 milliamp drain or a 950 milliamp drain . . . ?
The two drains I had were intermittent. All of a sudden the test light went bright white. Short in the lever controller. The other one went out to the garage one night and the interior lights were on. Short at the handle that turned the lights on. Just luck. Or bad battery.