1998 oldsmobile cutlass motor

So i just had a new motor put in not even 6 monthes ago and i got my oils changed less than 300 miles ago, and now i checked the oil when it was col and it was over the full mark almost 6 inches and smelled badly like gas so i opened the motor cap for the oil and it looked like their was nothing in it, even when i start the car and it gets hot its still like that. is that good?? i dont know whats wrong with it!!!

Do not start this car!! 6 inch’s over the full mark and smelled like gas. Its full of gas. It will kill this motor. Get it towed to a shop.

but i dont under stand how its telling me its way over full but theirs nothing at all in the motor when i take the cap off and see the valves or what ever pumping.


do you know why it would be filling up with gas?

You cant see the oil by looking into the motor. As to why its full of gas there many ways gas can get into the oil. Just have it towed to a shop and do not start it. Run it at all will and you will be putting in a new motor.

bad thing is ive already ran it because im in college and it was my only means of transportation… im guessing its been like that for a bit because my check engine lights been on and low oil pressure lights been staying on ): my motors got a 3 year warranty it anything messes up on its but still not good. Thanks for the advice.

Keep driving it and the warranty will be void. You do know that when the low oil light comes on you have turn off the car and stop driving it. I don’t think your warranty will cover you for this if they find out you have been driving it with the low oil light on.

its low oil pressure not low oil

and the dipstick reads that its full of oil

Yes, we know that its low oil pressure and not low oil. But that doesn’t change the fact you are destroying the motor while driving it & will end up voiding the warranty. You need to have it towed to a shop - if possible the shop that put the motor in it. There is nothing else that you can do.

If it’s full of oil, the red oil pressure lamp is on, and the engine oil is heavily diluted with gasoline then you likely already have major issues with this engine.

Whether warranty is going to cover this is very debateable. Engine oil that is heavily diluted with gasoline often gets that way because of a defective fuel pressure regulator. If a FP regulator is that bad this means the car should have been running poorly, belching smoke, keeping the CEL on, etc, etc.

The shop could make the point that if the FP regulator failed any engine problems were not caused by them.
This also gets into the area of how often do you check the engine oil level (meaning if this problem existed for a while it could have been noticed before harm was done), whether the engine oil before you had it changed was diluted, whether the CEL/oil pressure light thing was a recent thing, etc.

You can buy them books and send them to school…But that don’t mean they will learn.

As others have noted, you cannot take the oil cap off and see the oil. On some engines, you can see the oil flowing through the pushrods when it’s running, but yours is not one of them. I do recall hearing about someone who was being taught to do an oil change on a small block Chevy V8. The teacher told the person to fill the engine with oil, and he did, quite literally. He put about 14-15 quarts in it, until it was visibly full through the fill hole in the valve cover.

Regarding your low oil pressure light vs. low oil level light, both are warnings that the vehicle should not be driven until the cause of the light is diagnosed and corrected, but driving with the low oil pressure light on is much more likely to cause immediate, catastrophic damage to the engine. Unfortunately, if you have been operating the vehicle with fuel diluting the oil for any significant length of time, you have probably ruined the engine and the fuel-diluted oil has caused enough damage to the bearings to lower the oil pressure significantly (and/or the oil is so diluted it cannot be pumped at a decent pressure). Gasoline makes an excellent degreaser and will wash the oil film right off those bearings, journals, and cylinder walls, allowing for rapid and significant damage. Have the car towed to a repair shop, preferably the one that replaced the engine, and hope and pray that they can get it warrantied and correct the problem that caused your new engine (and perhaps your previous engine) to be destroyed in the first place.

Every thing you have been told here is true. You have probably already ruined the engine.

Your oil pump is designed to maintain pressure with a fluid the viscosity of oil. It cannot do so with a fluid the viscosity of gas. Thus your oil pump’s failure to maintain pressure.

And, the gas washes the oil away. This means that not only are the surfaces that most need a pressurized oil barrier between themselves and their corresponding bearings not riding on that pressurized barrier, whatever lubrication they might have had has been washed clean by the gas. They’re riding almost metal to metal.

Your engine has clearly suffered damage. Whether it’s still salvagable as a beater/daily means of transport will need a hands-on assessment. I recommend that you do not start the engine again until you get that. The cause of the problem as well as an assessment of what you’re now left with can both be determined hands-on.

I had a riding lawn mower once in which the carbuerater would leak gas into the oil. The way I discovered it was when I heard the connecting rod knocking. I fixed the carb, changed the oil and used it several more years. It was still running when I gave it to a friend who had done me a favor.