having trouble starting what is involved in a tune up I dont see a distributor cap, is there a rotor, all the wires go to a flat part that im not use of seeing is that a disributor cap. do I need to change that, hard starting when sets for a week ty
Distributors are history…Try this. Turn the key on and off several times BEFORE cranking the engine to build up fuel pressure. If it fails to start instantly, stop, and try again…Keep your fuel tank above 1/4 full…
the problem more occures when its sits for a while or its damp outside
No distributor. You have a coil pack. Computer sends a signal to fire the coil for each plug based on sensors on the engine. You still need to replace the spark plugs and ignition wires. The plugs are platinum tipped and designed to last 100,000 miles. Do yourself a favor and use some anti-seize on the plugs when you replace them. DO NOT GAP THE PLUGS. They should be properly gapped before packaging. Unless you have a special gapping tool for platinums, regular blade or disc type gappers can damage the platinum tips. They are more brittle than the old copper ones.
so your telling me that all I can do or all thats involved with a tune up is plugs, wires, and coil pack…changed the plugs 5,000 miles ago 142,000 now
As Caddyman said, ignition systems today don’t even resemble those of old. Spark distribution is computer controlled now. And engines are loaded with sensors and controls that never existed in earlier cars.
Let me suggest that rather than tinker with it and make things worse you bring it to a reputable independently owned and operated mechanic. He’ll be able to properly diagnose and fix the problem.
Please don’t interpret this as disrespectful. It’s my impression from your post that auto mechanics are far removed from your area of expertise, and sometimes it’s better to just bring it to a pro.
lol your probably right but I use to work on cars all the time.I quess I just lost it
Did you use Ac-Delco Platinums like the originals? Did you replace the ignition wires? The ignition wires are the most likely suspect with starting problems on damp days. With today’s platinum plugs lasting 100K, it is good practice to replace the wires with the plugs. The coil pack doesn’t need to be replaced until the computer senses problems with it and sets a DTC.
transferred from Chris2867’s other post:
I was told that there is no rotor or cap for this truck, but yet when I look up parts for a tuneup kit it shows rotor and cap can anyone comment on this
Distributors and rotors were still in use in 1998 (some of those Camaro LT-1 engines had that “unit” below the water pump). I suspect some option allowed one of these engines in this truck. OP do the wires (spark plug) gather on one end below the waterpump?
I have the FSM for 1998 and it only deals with the 6.5 and 7.4 but I know variants of the 5.7 were offered in 1998. At times GM puts other engines offered in additional books (as if 4 volumes were not enough for the truck).
Wikipedia states that the Silverado didn’t debut until model year 1999. Until then, the p/u was desiginated as C/K1500, or C/K2500. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chevrolet_C/K
The distributor cap is pretty odd looking. I have the same type on my 2000 Blazer, I’m not looking forward to replacing it. It’s tucked in behind the throttle body. Here’s a picture of the cap for a 98 1500 5.7l.
After 10 years I would replace the cap, rotor, and wires even though there are no maintenance intervals for the parts. I would stick with AC Delco parts though.
yes thats what it looks like…thank you very much
One other question di you have to take any other thing off to get your cap off
I’m saving this one until the spring or when the Blazer has driveability issues (it’s running fine at the moment at 109k).
I would suggest removing the intake ductwork from the throttle body to give yourself some space to work with. If you register with autozone there is a repair guide for your truck.