1997 Honda Civic just died while driving. has 150,000 ml but has been kept up with regular maint. timing belt changed at 90,000ml. Car did not jerk or sputter out–just died. All electrical still works. As far as can tell it is not getting spark to plugs, but is getting spark to distributor and rotor. Changed the control mlodualinside distributor, but no difference. Makes no sense. Has a new battery too! Seems to be getting fuel. Don’t know if magnetic pick ups are bad, those are not servicable. Is there a way to check these? What else could it be?
You’re going to have to determine if the belt didn’t break. Just because it was replaced just 60k miles ago…doesn’t mean it didn’t fail…The symptoms you’re describing sound just like the timing belt broke.
Agree; get a qualified mechanic to track down the problem.
Checking to see if timing belt failed is relatively easy. Does the rotor spin when you crank it? Another method is peeking into valve train with oil cap off while cranking it, do they move?
The following could very well be the cause. It’s not a rare problem and it’s free of charge to you.
http://corporate.honda.com/press/article.aspx?id=2002052353859
I have checked to see if the valve train moves and it does. So now what?
cor…2052353859 says that it is free of charge to me? How so???
Well then look at what OK posted…If the valve train is moving it’s NOT the belt…OK’s suggestion would be the first place to look.
Because it’s a recall and all recalls are free of charge, both parts and labor, to the car owner.
You state you have spark to the distributor and rotor. Do you mean that the coil produces a spark to the distributor cap or do you mean that power is provided to the ignition coil when the key is in the RUN position?
To determine if the switch is even the problem, use a test light or voltmeter to probe the + side of the coil. There should be power provided with the key in both the RUN and the START position.