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1996 Maxima stalls and cuts off

My 1996 Maxima is stalling and cutting out. As per my mechanic, have replaces the MAF and the idle air control valve, but has not improved. Are there any adjustments that can be made to the 2 new parts. Please advice.

No. There are no adjustments to these components.

Mileage on this car? Maintenance history? You’re not giving us much to work with.

I suggest you consult another mechanic.

Throwing parts at a problem is very expensive and non-productive. Testing components to see what works and what doesn’t is the way to go.

Is your Check Engine Light on?

Speedometer is broken, It should be at about 200K miles. Maintenance History: Regular oil changes and tune ups. After the 2 new parts, it is still doing the same thing? I remember there was, what I thought, was an adjustment screw on the idle control valve.

Describe your problem in detail. WHEN does the engine stall and cut out? Is it sudden, or does something happen moments before? Does the clock go to 12:00, or the dash lights flicker?

It stalls and cuts out when I come to a stop or slow down. On the freeway it sputters a little but keeps going and runs smoothly. The clock does not go to 12 or the dash lights flicker. My mechanic said he was sure the MAF needed replacing and that would be it. I have learned to brake with my left foot and rev the engine with my right when I come to a stop. If I’m at a light I place the car in neutral and rev up the engine.There must be a better, easier way!

Check Engine light? Codes read? MAF could certainly cause such symptoms, but if it’s been replaced, it’s apparently something else, although hauling out the multimeter and doing some quick diagnostic testing would confirm that the new MAF isn’t out of spec too. Other components to test are the coolant temp sensor and injectors, along with fuel filter, pump and pump relay.

No check engine light. No codes. When you replace the MAF does the car’s computer automatically adjust it? Will test the temp sensor and injectors. Fuel filter has been replaced pump and pump relay working fine.Thanks for your input.

Parts should not be replaced simply because they are suspected, unless money were no object.
You can draw up your suspects list, and then, examine each one…just like in cops and suspects. You (the mechanic) open the Haynes, or Chilton’s, or other, Repair Manual to get the examination instructions. When you collect enough information to indicate if the part is good, or bad, go to the next suspect. There is no acceptable excuse for not having the repair manual.
One suspect you can add to the list is the throttle position sensor (tps).
Here are some good instruction on testing engine controls, at www.autozone.com http://www.autozone.com/autozone/repairinfo/repairguide/repairGuideContent.jsp?chapterTitle=Electronic+Engine+Controls&partName=Driveability+%26+Emissions+Controls&pageId=0900c15280076320&subChapterTitle=Throttle+Position+Sensor&partId=0900c152800762b8 Register there, and click on the link, again.