What I don’t see in the list of parts changed is the ignition coil.
A weak spark might just get by at idle, then fail when cylinder pressures increase.
How do the spark plugs look? Any sign of carbon fouling?
http://www.verrill.com/moto/sellingguide/sparkplugs/plugcolorchart.htm
A very good point . . .
On my 1995 Corolla, I was getting all kinds of weird symptoms for a few days
Then I decided to tackle it once and for all
Among other tests, I popped off the distributor cap and started looking at the coil. The coil passed all resistance tests. But then I actually removed it for a very intense visual inspection. It had a crack at the bottom.
Once I replaced it, things were back to normal . . .
Sounds like another trip to UPull yard 
Dear Mr. circuitsmith,
The ignition coil is in the brand new (2018) distributor (Rock). No stand-alone ign. coil. but thx for your repsonse
Geo
Yeah, man,
I replaced the distributor (coil inside) in 2018 (Rock). The old dist. did have cracks inside. It was an oil leaker. Before this, I never knew that distributors could leak oil all over the engine. But I changed that. It’s something else. Thx a lot.
Yes, thx. and (GRIN).
I have to question the seriousness and legitimacy of this post.
Here’s why:
You said that for a year you’ve had the same issue of accelerating and only getting a max speed of about 25 MPH. So for the last year you’ve only drive on 25MPH speed limit roads?
You’ve listed a lot of detailed parts that you purchased and replaced which haven’t solved the issue. Yet or a year you continue to drive a car that has terrible acceleration and a top speed of 25MPH.
You’ve bought and installed all these different parts not knowing if they would fix the issue, which none of them have, yet you are not willing to buy or rent a $15 tool and do a compression check.
You also paid to get towed off a highway yet won’t spend $15 on a tool.
Are there no stores there that rent a compression tester and fuel pressure gauge?
A vacuum pump gauge is only $15.
It seems like there’s, while somewhat advanced, basic tests to do on tools that are less expensive than replacing a lot of parts and will give you answers to solve or eliminate a cause, yet you buy replacement parts, continue to drive it at a max of 25MPH for a year and won’t do compression, fuel pressure or vacuum tests.
A remanufactured ECM for that vehicle is only $177 and you seem to feel that is the issue.
My recommendation is to at least do the vacuum pump test thoroughly, fuel pressure test and compression test and check the results closely. If those three tests do not identify an issue, then I’d resort to the ECM replacement if I really felt that was the cause and I exhausted the less expensive options/tests.If one or more of those tests show an issue, then that may be your solution. If that still does not solve the issue then at what point do you move on from that car.
So, yes, 172slcs,
I do drive only 25 mph. The surface streets I use (never highway) are from30 to 45 mph limits. People just have to around me. And no observes speed limits anyway. So I just look like some old fogey who does observe limits. So ppl do get mad. It’s amazing that ppl cannot judge car distances. They come up w/i a few feet of my bumper and after a while decide to go around.
I have only temp. jobs. They last a few months or weeks and zing, they’re over, until another one pops up. So, I have periods of feast or famine. Right now I’m really scraping the barrel. I hardly drive; walk to the grocery store. (to save gas). Plus the car is really a pain in the arse to drive and possibly dangerous (to be rammed). It’s all true, I’m afraid.
At this time I can’t even part with (as you say) $15 for a compression check tool. As another community mbr. said, I can borrow one at the auto parts store, maybe. The fact is that I’m quite sure that it’s not a compression problem. Let’s remember, it’s a Corolla. The engine is one of the best every made. I’ve driven it usually like an old lady for the past 14 yrs. As long as it still starts and drives (albeit at 25-30 mph), I can always do that. It has certainly put a crimp in my lifestyle. I haven’t gone out to play guitar and sing in a year, for one. My fans miss me (grin).
As I said before on this site, the fuel pressure gauge is not the ones they sell today. The newer cars have a nipple in the fuel line somewhere where you just plug in the gauge. My car does not have nipples (not even one - grin). You need a special adapter kit to tap into the line at the fuel inj. rack. The dealer would have this or maybe I could order one (but not w/o the zula$). Not even the mechanic down the street has one. I’m sorta kinda stuck. (for now).
At Rock, a r/b ECM is $300 (inc. core charge of $50). Ich habe nicht. (I have not). I don’t think anyone is less expensive than Rock. I would like to get one when I can just to rule that out. It would be worth it. I think it’s probable the ECM or the wiring or a bent pin, etc. Tho the ECM has never been out of the car. So I don’t know how a pin bends itself.
On the other hand, I took it to an “old timer” mechanic near hear. He asked me a question I hadn’t heard before. I.e., “Did you ever have be motor mounts?” Zingo! Yes, I said. I changed them about a year ago. I did three myself (very hard to do!). The 4th one, the rear mount, was impossiblel to do on the ground (no lift). So I had a local x-mission shop put it in. They had rough time, too. I had them save the old one for me. It was SHOT. Big gaps, no rubber. So, the mechanic told me, bad mmounts is prime cause of harness problems due to the engine movement. Before the repairs, it was making clicking sounds going over tree roots in the yard. I thought it was front end stuff. But no, it was the m-mounts. After changed, sound went away. But yet, there may have been harness damage which, although I worked on multi-million dollar a/c electronics in the Marine Corps, I don’t believe I could reliably t/s the wiring harness on the Corollo.
Thx for the input.
Geo
It seems dangerous and a liability to drive like that. With that many miles there’s going to be more parts/maintenance to do if it is driven regularly.
I wish you the best.
Nah, I don’t think it’s a legal liabilty. Ppl just have to drive according to their surroundings.
My philosophy of old cars is that they’re just a collection of parts. You change all the major parts, here and there, and you have a new engine. That is to exclude, of course, an engine rebuild or something like that. I already had (1 1/2 yrs ago) the transaxle differential replaced. No big deal. Runs great. Every car needs parts at one time or another. Even relativiely new cars. They don’t build 'em like they used to or like the Japanese. Every car will need: alternators, water pumps, CV axles, struts, brakes, fan motors, a/c repairs, timing belts/chains, window regulators and motors, and so on and so forth. This really is the best car ever made ('95 Corolla). Further, they’re all over. On the roads and in the junk yards. Parts are easy to come by. I’m-a-gonna keep this car for-ever. I’m also inclined to “trick it out” when my ship comes in.
G
Possible, if you have a system connection. That was not on my vehicle—so searching around , as a detective would, I discovered cracks (small) and a couple hidden lines broken with age-------------Just a thought where you might start--------I’m not sure if anything would show up with an OBD test as that usually is testing voltage to different items in the system----but on my 89 Bronco, it did pick up an EGR code-------I attribute that to being cheap and installing a $25.00 valve rather than a Bosch $72.00 dollar one ! Not the first time I threw $$$ out the window!
I will closely examine vacuum lines. I thought I did, but I’ll do it again. thx
So now you tell us about the motor mounts. It is only significant because sometime you have to disconnect the ground straps that go between the engine and the chassis. I would check these and make sure that when they were reconnected, that the terminals and the ground pads were clean and free of corrosion. There should be at least two of them along with the negative battery cable itself. Poor grounds cause more headaches than you can count.
As for the ECM, not likely but it is possible. A reman is actually better than a new OEM because the repair techs see the same issues and tend to “upgrade” the problem areas. What I would do for a vehicle this age is to get an acid brush (aka flux brush) or small chip brush or paint brush and some 91% or higher alcohol. You can sometimes find 99% at places like Fry’s. Put some alcohol in a cup and use the brush to clean all the pins and sockets on the ECM and its connectors. Don’t be too rough on them, just a good gentile brushing.
Be sure the connectors are fully dry before reconnecting. You may want to remove the ECM and clean up where it contacts the body and then remount.
To be completely honest, I don’t think any of the above will solve your issues but it is possible. They are all cheap to do so why not.
Wow, Keith, you’re now my hero. (grin). will try and do as you recommend.
G48
Maybe I misunderstood, but you are doing 25 in a 40 to 45 mph road? Speed it up as you are a danger to yourself and others.
Can you provide a photo and video of this vehicle?
Yes, maybe you did misunderstand (or read correctly). That’s all the car will go.
'why in the world would you ask that, 172?
78 posts and nothing seems to have moved toward a solution . I am beginning to think this is not a serious thread.
And Geo48 you have posted your email again.
I want to see it. I’m sure others do too.
