I continue to have problems with my Chevy Beretta. The original problem was that – after my neice’s husband ran the car out of gas – we had to replace the fuel filter. That was last spring. Afterward the car seemed to run fine until the weather got hot. Now it seems to stall generally in high heat and humidity.
I only paid $800 for the car, and my idea was to get everything fixed on it and drive it a while to get my money out of it. I don’t want to go into debt for a car, and I don’t want to buy another one (unless I have to). I travel a lot, but I don’t need my car for work – just for personal travel.
A local mechanic has changed the crankshaft position sensor and now the ignition module. I got the car out of the shop again yesterday, but the problem remains. I could barely drive it around the block this evening. The temperature is 73F, humidity is 84%, and dewpoint is 68.
Is this problem definitely weather related? What could be the cause? Vapor lock? An intermittent problem with the fuel pump, filters, or fuel injector? Is it possible to get this fixed for good?
Probably the first thinig is that the rail fuel pressure should be measured to determine if there is a fuel problem. If that’s not the cause, it could be any among a numerous list. Any unmetered air that makes it past the airflow sensor unmetered will result in an incorrect fuel/air ratio, so the he next thing I’d do is check the entire engine vacuum system – each device and each hose – for leaks. If all that is ok, next in line of suspects would be the O2 sensors. But faulty O2 sensors would usually cause the check engine light to come on. I’m assuming it isn’t on. Right?
One other thing, does it stall only in gear coming to stops? The Berettas were real bad about a TCC switch in the trans sticking and causing it to stall the motor like you were trying to stop a car with a true clutch. Just a different thought.
Still have the problem. I bought another car to get around with, but I haven’t given up on the Chevy. George, you might be on to something with the vacuum leaks. The check engine light does not come on. Usually the first light I see is a temperature light. Today I put the car back on insurance and tried it out again (after some other repairs). I have a shadetree mechanic now, and he changed the fan motor (it didn’t seem to be working) and set the fan to run continuously when the motor is on. Would it make sense that a vacuum leak would only cause problems when the engine gets hot? Is the vacuum leak causing the engine to get hot? (It just goes barely beyond the center line now.) Is it triggering some sensor that shuts off the engine?
W30post, it stalled today while driving down the street, after running errands for about an hour. After I put gas in it, I pulled out and it stalled again. It stalled a couple more times. I borrowed my car and went to the game, then afterwards came back and drove the car about 45 minutes home with no problem until just at the end. The temp light came on and it acted like it wanted to stall but kept going and I made it home. What’s the culprit? A vacuum hose? A bad sensor?
I’d start by testing the fuel pump and fuel pressure regulator. The history of the car having been run out of gas and the pump haviing been clogged from it suggests that the fuel system needs a good look. Running out of fuel can damage a modern pump.