1989 honda accord carb problem?

my car starts good but idles high 2300+ until warm then runs good most of the time however sometimes when warm idles down too low and stumbles and stalls. Is this a carb issue or something else.


I believe that this car is fuel injected by this year. A cleaning of the throttle body would be the first step in trying to solve this problem.

Yes, there were carbureted Accords up through '89. Yes, the carb jets, passages and linkages might need cleaning after 19 years.

Just to confirm, is this car carbureted? They came both ways and the high idle adjustment is completely different on each.

Assuming it’s carburated, the idle speed is driven by mechanical linkage from the choke that operates a “high idle cam”, which is basically a stepped “ladder” on which a “high idle adjustment screw” sit. This mechanical linkage can gett gummed up over the years and may just need a good cleaning with a spray solvent such as carb cleaner.

Also, it’s possible that the temperature sensor (a bimettalic spring) has become weak with age and is no longer functioning effectively.

Try cleaning the linkage first.

nope it is a carb model

Can you clean the carb in place or does it need to be removed?

While it probably wouldn’t be a bad idea to remove the carburetor and give it a thorough cleaning, in this case you probably just need to clean up the linkage for the high idle cam and/or perform the carburetor adjustment procedure as spelled out in your service manual with particular attention to the choke/high-idle system.

You do have a service manual, right? If not it’s time to get one-- these cars are nice enough, but the carburated versions are really tricky to keep running right and a good service manual is indispensable.

thank you for all the help, I will be picking up some carb. cleaner on the way home tonight and give this thing a going over this weekend.

thanks again

After cleaning the carb it is definenately better but still not right. Could it be a sensor? maybe O2 or coolant temp.

What do you think.

Nope, it’s the carb. Since you’ve cleaned that up, and I assumed checked the linkage for function, I’d suggest looking at the idle setting when not on the high idle cam.

If “warm” means totally at operating temp, then my earlier post suggesting the high idle cam linkage can be ignored. If, as I originally understood, “warm” means that temperature between cold and fully warmed up, then I’d be inclined to change the bimetallic spring that moves the linkage. They can become fateigued (sp?) with age.

A fast idle of about 1500 RPM when the engine is cold is normal; 2300 is too high. This is controlled by the fast idle cam screw.

The stalling at idle when warm is likely one of three things.
One is a plugged idle circuit internally in the carburetor or a plugged air bleed (accessible through the throat of the carburetor). Sometimes it’s possible to clear this out by removing the top of the air cleaner and repeatedly covering the top of the carburetor with an old towel (folded several times over), and revving the engine until it tries to stall, followed by removing the towel before it does. Repeat several times.
Two is the possibility of a faulty anti-diesel solenoid or lack of power provided to that solenoid. This is easily checked by disconnecting the solenoid, turning the key to the RUN position, and repeatedly connecting and disconnecting the solenoid wire connector. It should click every time this is done.
Three is a vacuum leak.

Thanks for posting, mt friend. Beieve it or not, I used to know this stuff…back in Pangea.

I totally forgot about those idle stop solenoids.

How do I find the anti-diesel solenoid my repair manual does not show it?


It should be a small cylinder shaped solenoid located on the front of the carburetor near the idle mixture screw adjusters (which are often made tamper-proof). It will have either a one or two wire connector on it.