This is a carburetor model of the 1988 Honda accord I fixed the vacuum leak, and it is not gummed up from ethenal I still have Idle issue where the car wants to die unless I keep it revved up and when up put it in drive it wants to stall out but i can keep it going by letting of the gas and them giving it more gas. Does the carbonated model have the Idle air control valve and a fast idle valve or is that just on the fuel injection engines. Because every one on line claims this is the areas to look at but I can not find them on my 88 Honda where they explain to find these valves. someone please help me with this Idle problem
It has a fast idle cam to elevate the RPMs when the engine is cold and the choke is partially closed.
It does not have an Idle Air Control valve.
It does have an anti-diesel solenoid which shuts off the fuel/air mixture when the key is turned off.
It is near impossible to explain how a carburetor works because that could turn into a thesis.
Consider this picture.
Note in the pic that on the right hand side a small silver colored solenoid can be seen sticking out. This should have a wire attached to it. With the key in the RUN position (engine off) disconnect and reconnect that wire a few times. You should hear that solenoid click each time. If so, that means it’s good and the anti-diesel solenoid is not the cause of the problem.
That doesn’t mean there isn’t a fault with an idle circuit, plugged air bleed, etc, etc but will rule the solenoid out anyway. There should also be 12 volts provided to that solenoid so a blown fuse could cause the engine to refuse to idle.
It may not be a carburetor issue but instead a carburetor control issue.
You see all those numbered vacuum hoses that run from carburetor to the black box on the firewall? Inside that black box are the carburetor control solenoids. And unless you have access to the diagram that shows how the carburetor is controlled thru these solenoids, there’s no telling what’s going on.
When I had my 80’s Honda’s, and the carb acted up, it wasn’t the carb. But instead the solenoid assembly. So I’d go to the local junk yard and get a used solenoid assembly and that would fix the problem.
So there is no Idle Air Control valve, but there is a fast idle control circuit. But that’s controlled thru the solenoid assembly.
Allow me to suggest that since you don’t understand fuel metering systems, including carburetors, it might be better and cheaper in the long run to just let an old time mechanic take a look-see. He might instantly see the problem and repair it quickly and affordably, whereas if you start turning screws at random on the carburetor the cost to go back and repair the errors might be a lot higher.
Just to use an example to illustrate, if the idle-stop solenoid is dead he’ll see than instantly and simply replace it and adjust the idle. Messing with the mixture screws before bringing it to him would then require him to readjust the carburetor after changing the solenoid, and that’ll be an extra hour’s shop time.
Have you cleaned the carb throats?
Take a small rag saturated with carb cleaner, open the butterfly valves and wipe everything clean.
I would first do that and adjust the base idle.
Next step is remove idle mixture screw and spray carb cleaner in with the extension tube.
Count the turns to GENTLY close the idle screw so you know where to re-install it.
There’s probably a bracket to remove and a range limit cap to pop off the screw.
Is this an automatic or standard? I just looked up the vac diagram, what a nightmare!