My 1986 B2000 problems started when the engine would run for a few minutes and not restart. After it sat a while, it would restart.
Through out the precess of seeking a fix, I have replaced the fuel pump, coil, distributor cap, rotor, pick-up coil in the distributor, condenser, and spark plug wires and coli wire.
Currently, there is no spark out of the coil wire feeding the distribute.
There are 12 volts at the positive and negative side of the coil terminals when the key is in the “run” position.
There is about 10 volts to each coil terminal when the engine is cranking over.
I have tried using the old coil and the old pick-up coil in the distributor, but with no luck.
Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.
Constant 10v at both sides of the coil primary indicates that the battery is likely weak and there is no triggering of the primary to induce the coil to fire. When the engine is running or being cranked the (-) side of the coil should be dropping to zero twice for each revolution of the crankshaft. In fact, when the key is on without cranking the engine the (-) side of the coil should read near zero.
The shop manual states that when the ignition switch is in the “start” position, the negative side of the coil should read approximately 6 volts.
That’s only if you’re using an old voltmeter not capable of displaying the actual voltage there, which should switch rapidly from 0 to over 12 when the engine is cranking. You’d be better off using a test light to the negative side and watching to see if it flashes rapidly.
Is this a points system or an electronic ignition system? If a points type, remove the dist cap and manually rotate the engine until the points are closed. Is the negative of the coil now about 0 volts? If so, rotate the engine so the points are open. Is the negative of the coil now around 12 volts, maybe a little less? If both test out, that means the points are working and the coil primary is at least conducting current. The spark occurs when the points transition from closed to open. I’ve done this manually sometimes, just using a small insulated screwdriver to wedge the points open, to see if that will trigger a spark.
If all that seems to be ok, but still now spark, suspect a bad coil.