Ok boys this car is starting to really make me mad now first it was the gas pedal then the distributer cap and then what I thought was the starter so when there’s no spark going to it it wants to start up just fine the starter hits the flywheel without it slipping then when it does get spark the starter is constantly slipping and doesnt want to hit the flywheel right if anyone has had or knows how to fix this problem I would greatly appreciate it
This is a typical GM shim issue, and your mechanic does not seem to know how to insert the right number of shims to get the starter to engage the flywheel.
I had a similar problem with a Caprice with the small block V8. Finally found a good mechanic and also had to buy a new flywheel.
Another possibility is that the sprag clutch in the Bendix drive may have gone bad. The Bendix drive is in the nose of the starter and is what engages with the flywheel when the solenoid pulls it in. We used to replace them but I don’t know if you can buy them separately anymore.
I’m not sure what you’re trying to say. You say the engine wants to start up fine when there’s no spark, which it can’t. But then you talk about the starter slipping on the flywheel? I’m not sure that there’s any relation between your two problems. Sounds like you have an electronic ignition issue and a starter issue. Is the engine and ignition system still the stock original configuration?
I tried to wrap my brain around your unpunctuated post, but I just can’t do it.
I had the same problem, just ignored it.
It took me awhile but is this what you meant to say?
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If I disable the spark and crank the engine, everything is normal. The starter engages the flywheel and the engine cranks normally.
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If I restore the spark and try cranking, the starter does not properly engage the flywheel.
If this is correct interpretation, check the battery voltage at the starter under both conditions. Report back with readings…
I think these kind of run-on sentences and paragraphs happen when people use their smart phones to post messages
I know they mean well . . . but it’s sure hard to read and comprehend what the person is trying to get across
Twin turbo knows exactly what I was trying to say. But I’ll look at it
With the coil connected the starter motor spins at a high rate of speed and won’t engage the ring gear? But with the coil disconnected the starter motor engages and the crankshaft rotates at normal speed?
The problem is it’s 41 years old…Every piece of wire, every connection, every switch, every electrical contact, the whole package…
Does anyone but GM use shims? I know none of the Chrysler or Ford products I have replaced used them.
Does anyone but GM use shims? I know none of the Chrysler or Ford products I have replaced used them.
Does anyone else use a horizontal mount on their starter? Mounting the starter to the block on a horizontal pad is common on all the GMs I can remember and that design results in fewer rejects of starter noses and engine blocks because minor deviations can be corrected with shims. And the shade tree method of bending the shims allows for tightening the mesh as well as expanding it and doing so quickly and easily.
Isn’t this the 383 stroker with the aftermarket starter motor and crack whose location was not mentioned?
I tend to agree with Twin Turbo; it’s time to check for a voltage drop. Maybe double checking to make sure the engine ground is good also.
Ok guys I don’t have the tools for this and now I’m pretty much car less so if anyone is in cali in oceanside I appreciate it if you could help a marine out
I would pay you for your help Jamestown keep in mind I’m not rich
I would have to agree with @asemaster … Your problem description has my mind turning like an Escher picture.
Please clarify what you are trying to tell us… Your comments on Spark and the Started do not jive Im afraid. I know what you might be trying to say…but we are only as accurate as your problem description.
Please clarify if you want any kind of advice you can actually use.
Blackbird
I don’t know how else to say it it you go and read twin turbos description maybe that will help
I decided to humor you and I read @TwinTurbo assessment or interpretation of your issue. If his interpretation is the one you wish me to use… then the very first thing that comes to mind is your timing.
Very incorrect ignition timing will make the starter sound really bad…Much more specifically, the Firing Order… because the engine isnt firing correctly it will not be a linear crank over and will torture the starter to death as cylinders are ignited out of order and not at TDC.
This is very probably because you mixed up the spark plug wires either at the cap or the plugs. …since you did the cap…methinks you have the firing order out of synch.
Lookup your firing order…locate cyl number 1…put engine at TDC on number 1… remove distrib cap and mark where the rotor is pointing…that is number 1 cyl…then proceed to wire up the Wires/Cap/Plugs Correctly…Im sure you will find one or more is out of synch.
I have 20 bucks on that being your issue… In fact I can almost hear what your starter sounds like from here…
Blackbird