Haha thanks guys. I better pass on the nice clothes for a bit. More like bring tools, a jack, and a fire extinguisher along!
I don’t want to add anything under the hood that’s not factory right now (other than the extra fuel filters for now). It’s got too much crap inside the engine built up. I’ll run a cleaner through it soon.
I replaced 3 of the 4 wheel cylinders today, ran out of time to get the last one done. But, I was too excited… took it out for a ride in the neighborhood tonight and I HAVE BRAKES!!! So excited. Now all I need are new tires, and a million other things! But for now, VICTORY!!!
@Fender1325–Way to go!
I remember my first ride in a Cadillac–a 1951 model 61 sedan and it was the smoothest, quietest car and yet the most powerful that I had ever ridden in. Interestingly, the Cadillacs of that time period were economical to run relative to other cars. The 1950 Cadillac got better mileage than the 1950 Chevrolet with the PowerGlide automatic transmission.
Holy moley, by the time I got to look at this there were 262 comments. Took me a while to get through 29 pages of progress. Looks great. I didn’t see any brake lights in the two videos though. Everything I would have said has already been said by others. Makes me tired though just thinking about all the work but that’s what being young is about. Really enjoyed the process.
My high school social studies teacher was an old Democrat and drove an early 50’s Caddy to school every day. It was in great shape and the only car he had. This was in 65 and he probably bought it new if I remember it right. Never had a ride in one myself though.
Thanks guys. Question…
When driving it through the neighborhood up hills now, it wont down shift, even if I floor it. I think theres an adjustment I can make on the carb but I could be wrong. Any ideas?
Oh and you’re right the brake lights dont work. Gotta figure that out as well
There should be a rod that comes up from the transmission to the carburetor on the passenger side. Sounds like yours is missing.
I recall reconnecting 2 rods to the carb after rebuilding it. 1 throttle and Im assuming the other is the trans. I just need to figure how that needs to be adjusted. Its a basic 2 barrel carb. I think it was called a carter?
Brake lights are likely the brake light switch either off the brake pedal or back then on the master cylinder (at least for Chrysler). If those rods are the same as my 59 Pontiac, it doesn’t take much movement to change the shift points.
I’ve got a Motors that covers 52 but not 50. I adjusted the rods on my Pontiac based on a Pop Mech article. It took a number of changes to get it right. Its a matter of shortening or lengthening the rods to get the shift point correct. I believe one rod is tied to the gas pedal and the other to the trans. The procedure was not understandable to me though. If theres a tranny shop with an old guy still there, might be worth having them adjust them. Probably got off when the carb was pulled.
I was able to find this topic in the shop manual, although the wording is confusing and it, like usual, calls for the use of special tools. “Use special tool J-3065 to measure and bend rod if out of alignment” or something to that effect. Looks like Im in trial and error territory.
Well, upon trying to undo the axle nut on the drivers side to do the last wheel cylinder swap, I found it was overly tight. Even with a breaker bar itll turn some but remains very very tight. I only have a 12 point socket that fits (1-1/16) so that’ll have to wait before I round off that nut.
And in other news, while popping off the cap to the master cylinder (which is down on the frame rail) I touched a couple loose wires which shot out sparks. Nice fire hazard. Funny enough it showed me where the brake light switch is! Precisely one of the broken hot wires went to it. I disconnected the battery, taped up any bare wire ends, and buttoned her up for the day.
Feeling tired, sweaty, dirty, and hopeless. And yes I busted the crap out of a knuckle. Old cars will kick your butt if you let them!
Yep a good socket and I have about a four foot pipe for an extension. More than once I’ve had to stand on it to break a nut loose. PB and leverage is your friend.
an air compressor and impact gun are good buddies too. I couldn t do repair work without them any more
@fender1325- I have the specs and the procedure for adjusting the throttle valve linkage in that hydramatic. as soon as I locate it I’ll send you an annotated copy. by the way if you notice that the 2-3 shift feels long and drawn out don’t worry about it. its perfectly normal.
Thanks guys.
So you wont believe this. The drivers side axle nut is REVERSE THREADED. Here I was beating on a breaker bar with a sledge hammer. Yikes.
So I finally get it apart, then replace the wheel cylinder and go to bleed it and nothing comes out. I had that valve wide open and nothing. The shoes wouldnt even pump outward so I think that line is clogged somehow. Leave it to the last wheel to make it all messed up.
All my tools are packed up and thats all she wrote. For today anyhow.
@Dr. Dyno thank you so much. I did find it in my shop manual but it was quite confusing. I was going to try and tighten up the linkage and see what happened. It has play in it currently. I havent even checked the fluid in it yet either. It will take off in 1st, and hit 2nd, maybe 3rd? and it just lugs. Even today I drove it to the grocery store which is only a half mile away on a back road, and I found myself trying to make it down shift because it was lugging. Letting off the gas and pushing it again down. Just held that gear, whatever it was in.
…Anybody want to buy a cadillac? 
I found this buick online that I absolutely love…
Its a 1950 Buick Special Sedanette
And here’s mine…after a good old WD40 bath.
rear brake (photo is rotated wrong - top is on left side)
Todays work
@fender- please don’t. it’s been too many years since i’ve built a Dynaflow:)
Dont tighten the linkage?