As for the points issue, it was the term “stuck points” that bothered me. I more or less agree with your second explanation, except for the worn block. I always use the lube on the cam so the blocks never wore down on me and as far as I know, all mechanics did too.
I have seen the pitting, many times, many many times, but it was the oxide coating from the burning caused by the spark when the points opened that blocked the current. The file would knock that off pretty quickly. I never used a jack knife but it probably would work in an emergency.
What’s with the rash of screenwriters and authors appearing on this forum and looking for an automotive scenario over the past year? Just wonderin’… 
If the 1940 truck had a flathead V8 engine (many did) the distributor cap and points were in a TERRIBLE location, difficult to get to… Few farmers messed with the points by the side of the road…A 6 cylinder truck was more serviceable and points were roadside doable…
Vapor lock is a hot weather problem, most likely to occur in the Spring…
Thanks everyone! This is great. I knew I’d get a quick and insightful response.
@Caddyman–Unfortunately, Ford didn’t have a 6 cylinder engine in 1940. There were two V-8 engines available–a 60 hp V8 and the more popular 85 hp V8. The flathead 6 cylinder engine came along in 1941 and was available in both cars and pickup trucks. Incidentally, up to about 50 mph the flathead 6 could outrun the flathead V8. In fact, the V8 was rated at 85 hp and the 6 was rated at 90 hp. After WW II, the same engines were offered, but the 6 somehow gained 5 hp to 95 hp and the V8 generated an even 100 hp.
Well okay then…Forget the points because servicing them was not something you did by the side of the road on a hot engine…Later, after the war, they moved the distributor to a much more serviceable location…
Or maybe the author could upgrade to a 1941 Ford truck with a 6 cylinder engine.
Here is picture of a 1940 V8 Ford…The distributor is directly under the fan blades…
@oldtimer–I remember the alcohol based antifreeze being available as late as 1951. DuPont had the alcohol based antifreeze and it was called Zerone. The ethylene glycol antifreeze (permanent antifreeze) was called Zerex. As I remember, Zerone would boil away at about 180 degrees.
Keith- I have the feeling you live a lot further south than I do. Ethylene glycol was a godsend in our part of the country and ended the constant vigilance necessary to avoid a cracked block when using Freezone (alcohol) which used to evaporate and had to be constantly checked with a hydrometer. The farmers I knew that were too penny-pinching to buy Prestone would have to drain the block and radiator from mid September to the end of April on their farm equipment.
Well he said it takes place in 1940 and it was a 1940 truck. Therefore it was a new truck. Not likely to have many problems with a new truck. Vapor lock but that takes all of two minutes to fix and a bottle of water. I suppose the carb float could stick but a rap with a screwdriver would handle that. So maybe something that didn’t get put in right at the factory like a loose battery cable or something.
Oldtimer 11, it is true that I probably live further south than you, my formative car years were spent in Southern California and I currently live south of the Mason-Dixon line, but I was born in Vermont. In So Cal, no one used antifreeze in the 60’s except for those with new cars.
The last new car that my dad bought while I was still living at home was a 64 Pontiac. After the annual radiator flush, he ran only water in it, with a can of aforementioned water pump lube and rust preventer. My grandfather always used the alcohol antifreeze in Vermont.
Back in those days, an annual radiator flush was a requirement so the “permanent” antifreeze wasn’t that permanent. Since it cost about a buck a gallon then, and a buck was considered serious money then, especially in Vermont, it was considered a waste of money. Alcohol was so much cheaper, especially when bought as alcohol and not a name brand antifreeze.
@Bing “Therefore it was a new truck. Not likely to have many problems with a new truck”.
Back in the good old days of 1940s when they made real trucks (floor shifts, spartan interiors rubber floormats, full set of gauges on the dashboard, gas tank in the cab, one windshield wiper unless you paid for an optional passenger side wiper), ignition points were replaced or regapped at 10,000 mile intervals or sooner. It is possible that a 1940 pickup in 1940 might have been driven enough that the points would cause trouble.
Well I guess he said “1940s” not “1940” so it could be up to ten years old. I guess I’d buy the point problem but would like to see it chugging along a little first before it gave out.
Broken fan belt maybe?
Do I get Royalties? Some band aid emergenceys solved by my shop teacher while ministering in a vw van in africa.
The van died crossing a stream, he put it in first gear and finished crossing the stream using the starter motor.
Ever Popular using a pair of panty hose to replace a broken belt.
My ever fave, fashioned a rotor with a cork and paper clip.
Its amazing to see so many responses to this question! I have driven a flathead v-8 40 sedan for less than a year now and have encountered several of these issues already. My points failed but it was from the leaf-spring breaking, allowing the points to stay closed. I’ve heard stories of people carrying extra distributors with them in the old days and changing them out upon point failure. During warmer weather, once the engine reaches operating temp, if it shuts off, it won’t start again for a while. My assumption has always been vapor lock. Though reluctant to believe the gas is vaporizing in the line, I can’t wait to try pouring water on it to see if it helps. Thanks for the tips! What are the general thoughts on pure gas? See pure-gas.org for locations!