replaced battery, replaced fuse line holder by battery, checked starter w/ jumper wires, most smaller ignition related fuses are fine.
Can’t read the schematic for the relay box, so I didnt check that. online manufacturer manual has nothing on it. how do I test those?
should I go spend money to reprogram the key?
what should I do?
Thanks,
What do you mean by ‘not starting’? Is the starter turning when you turn the key?
Need more information.
Is the engine turning over??? If so is there any sign that it’s trying to catch???
not turning over at all, no clicking or anything.
It’s either a short in the ignition circuit…or the battery is dead. Try jumping the battery or putting it on a charger and see if that helps.
When you turn the key on, do the dash lights come on? Then, when you turn the key to the start position, do all the lights go out?
If the lights stay on while you’re turning to the starting position, the starter or its solenoid is likely not being engaged at all. Normally those parts draw a fair bit of current, usually showing itself by those lights totally dimming.
In that’s not the case, the problem is probably is due to to an interlock not operating correctly. If this is an automatic, it could be due to it thinking the car is in ‘drive’ and not in ‘park’. Try moving the stick to Neutral and see it will start.
It could be something like the ignition switch as well, among various other things, though.
When I turn the key, lights come on and when I turn to start the light stay on w/ no dimming. I put it in neutral and still doesnt start. I put a brand new battery in it last week.
everything seems to work from a dashboard standpoint. It just does nothing when I turn the key to try to start it.
Thanks for your efforts, I appreciate it
It could be the starter solenoid (part of the starter), an interlock or possibly a the ignition switch.
Are you capable of using a multimeter?
If so, measure the voltage on the starter, both on the fat lead and on the skinny lead. Be careful to not short anything because especially the fat lead is capable of delivering a fair bit of current.
You should have 12V on the fat lead all the time. The skinny lead is only at 12V while you are starting so you may need someone to give you a hand with that one while you measure that wire.
Then report back.
Okay we put a meter on the starter and its not that because it worked and made the start-up sound. I have reason to believe its either the relay for the ignition or the key needs to be reprogrammed. I just need schematics for the relay box(it is worn due to weather) Its odd that it gets the program knocked out but its worth a shot.
have u ever seen that problem in your experience with cars?
I was under the impression that the starter wasn’t turning.
I was under the impression that the starter wasn't turning.
Me too!!!
So what’s the problem?? Kinda hard to help if we don’t know what the problem is.
The starter is turning when jumped w/ the meter, but not when I turn the key. There seems to be a disconnect from the ignition to the starter.
Turn the ignition key to the “on” or run position. Jump the starter to get it turning over the motor. Does the motor then start and run?
From what I gather so far either the ignition key is faulty, or the starter solenoid is faulty.
If jumping it with the key in the run position results in the motor running then I suspect the solenoid 1st but it still could be a faulty ignition switch not making the connection in the start position.
If the motor does run then it isn’t a programming key issue.
"The starter is turning when jumped w/ the meter, but not when I turn the key. There seems to be a disconnect from the ignition to the starter. "
A multimeter shouldn’t jump the starter. What are you doing? Are you shorting wires and contacts? Don’t do that unless you know what you’re doing.
Or does pressing on the contact on the starter make it run?
If it starts when you press on a contact or wire, you may have found your issue. Look in that area.