I have a 05 dodge magnum v6 2.7. Only when its warm it stalls at idle. Scanned it code p0137 came back low voltage o2 sensor 1 of 2. I replaced all 4 o2 sensors and still stalling
Clean and or replace your IAC.
Thanks I will try that and see what happens
I tried to find an IAC. I called a few auto stores and they said it the car doesn’t have one on it
I know it’s after the fact, but oxygen sensors will generally not cause stalling
In addition to cleaning the IAC, I also advise you to clean the throttle body
When it’s idling with the hood open, do you hear any hissing? If you do, you may just have a vacuum leak, which would also cause rough running
Come to think of it, that P0137 might be caused by a vacuum leak, which would cause the sensor to read low
How does the car run other than stalling at idle? Cleaning the IACV is a step one - I don’t think this car has a MAF sensor (probably just a MAP), but if it does, clean that too. But if it’s running oddly then you have other things to check.
Did your code return? It probably doesn’t have anything to do with the stalling because the 2nd sensor just monitors the cat. Its also quite possible that it wasn’t from a faulty sensor.
The car runs fine when its cold but when it warms up it idles a little funny. Yea I’ve cleared the code and shortly after it comes back. I haven’t noticed any hissing under the hood
It only stalls after it warms up it will sit and run while cold
Actually when I first start it up and put it in drive the car wants to go with out pushing the gas but it don’t idle high in park
After doing the O2 sensors, did you actually check the codes again and get the same? Or did the engine light come back on and you’re just assuming it is the same? If you haven’t actually read the codes again then do so.
Note that P0137 refers to a low voltage condition. That could mean the sensor is bad. But it’s really about the sensor circuit - so you need to check the wiring to it.
It probably won’t explain the funky idle though - that would fit with a sensor 1 problem because it’s the upstream sensor that is a primary input to the PCM for fuel/air mix after the car warms up and enters closed loop. But that’s one reason to pull codes again if you haven’t.
Does it do ok when off-idle? I.e. does it accelerate fine, hold speed, have normal power and all of that?
After o2 sensors were replaced codes were cleared then checkengine light returned. Scanned aging and low voltage code was thrown. When im driving it runs ok. Doesn’t seem to have as much power as it should when accelerating but it will maintain speed
You should go ahead and clean the IAC. But I’m going to suspect that you are having some other or additional issues.
How many miles on the car? How old are the plugs and wires? Filters? If you clean the IAC and funky idle continues check for vacuum leaks. If it does seem to lack some power you should have the fuel pressure checked and the exhaust back pressure.
Did a another scan threw codes p0202 p0300 p0306 p0573
I called a auto parts store to get IAC they said the car doesn’t have one. 179k. When i did another scan came up with a misfire in cylinder 6 a random misfire and fail in injector#2
Im not sure how old spark plugs and filters are I haven’t owned the car that long
You can edit your own posts and make them pretty much as long as you want. Putting your reports back in one post is easier than multiple ones.
Don’t drive the car at all until you know whether or not your brake lights are working reliably (P0573). But that won’t make the car run poorly. It will just get you rear ended and maimed or killed.
You need to do a full round of maintenance and basic checking of the major systems. You never said how many miles are on it, but you need to check the service schedule on it and get everything up to date. At minimum, have a look at the plugs and wires. Change the filters. Check the fuel pressure. After dealing with plugs and wires wait to see if the P0300 and P0306 come back.
Your #2 injector and its wiring need inspection (P0202). You can actually easily find out if it’s the injector OR wiring by swapping the #2 injector to another spot. If the code follows the injector, then the injector itself is suspect. If it stays on #2 then you probably have a wiring or PCM problem.
You should probably also get your hands on the following TSB: #0900505 (NHTSA ID #10018981) for rough idle and multiple cylinder misfire.
The reason there’s no IAC valve is because the throttle body is electronically controlled. So the throttle body controls the idle.
If cleaning the throttle body doesn’t fix the stalling problem then more than likely the throttle body requires replacement.
I’m suspecting a vacuum leak or exhaust leak of some kind. The reason it stalls only when warm at idle is b/c the O2 sensors start working only when the engine gets warm. The extra O2 from the leak is confusing the ECM’s determination for the fuel to air ratio. At idle there is less O2, so any extra O2 from the leak is a bigger % of the total O2 getting sucked in the engine, making the symptom due to incorrect air/fuel ratio worse at idle. Before the O2 sensors kick in, it runs open loop, so it idles better when the engine is cold.
Often vacuum leaks are caused by a leaky brake booster, so that would be a good place to look first.
Throttle body has already been taken apart and cleaned. How do I go about finding the vacuum leak. Could it possibly be my map sensor. I called an auto parts store to get one and I don’t know if its flange or unflanged also my tail lights just stopped working. The brake lights are still working
So this was happening to my 05 magnum se my fiancé changed the PCV Valve and it has been running great!!! This car has been a big mystery of issues and little help online. I try hope this helps others with issues.