03 toyota corolla coil problem


#1

I replace all coils as spark plugs on my car, drive it for 3 days and it blew one of the coil, now the car will not start, no electricity in coming to the Engine the starer will not turn or do anything All the other electrical stuff like lights do work, what can be the problem?


#2

Does this mean that it blew the spark plug and coil out of the head, or blew as a light bulb blew???
If the later, how do you know the coil is now bad??

I think you have a new problem, unrelated to the plugs and coils.

If the starter does not turn the engine over, you most likely have a bad connection at the battery.

Battery connections are the first place to begin when you have a “No Crank” situation. Even

if you have a new battery, if the connections are loose, dirty or corroded, you will not be

allowing the full flow of current to pass thru the connections. The connection may be

enough to turn on the lights, but not enough for the huge flow that is needed to operate the

starter. This is where many people say that they know the battery is good….”because the

lights come on”. This is no more a battery test than licking a 9volt battery. It only tells you that there is electricity…not how many volts or the amperage that flows from the battery.

Jump starting may have wiggled the terminal just enough to allow the current to pass and start the engine, but tomorrow you have the same problem.

First remove the cables from the battery and use a wire brush to remove any corrosion and dirt from the battery posts and the cable terminals. There is a tool with a round wire brush for this purpose, found at any auto parts store for less than $10 http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/kd-tools-terminal-battery-brush-kdt201/25980576-P?searchTerm=terminal+brush.

Before connecting the cables, apply a coating of di-electric grease to the battery posts this will keep oxygen away from the connection so that it will not corrode as fast.

It is just as important that the other end of the cables also have a clean connection. Remove the negative cable from the battery again so that you do not short anything out. Follow both cables to their far ends, remove this connection and wire brush the connection and the cable terminal clean and retighten these connections.

If there was work done recently, there may have been an “engine to body” ground that was not installed following the work. These grounds normally run from the rear of the engine to the firewall and are uninsulated and most are a braided wire. If any of these are found unattached…reattach them.

Remember….this is not a “Sherman Tank” don’t over tighten the connections.

Tight…tight………………too tight…broke!!!

Yosemite


#3

If the warning lights come on with the ignition switch then check the fuses in the dash fuse panel. If they are all good then you need to check power going to the starter solenoid. There are safety switches involved that need to pass power on to the solenoid when the key is turned to the START position.


#4

Check the battery and jump start it but nothing, check all fuses and relay but still have no power going to the ignition system, the motor stop working when I was driving so the coil did damage something.


#5

Check all, and I mean ALL, of the fuses; both underhood and underdash. Could be a fusible link has given up.

I kind of doubt the coil caused the issues.

You never did elaborate on what is meant by “blew one of the coil”. Blown out of the hole, blown apart, or what?


#6

I can’t find any fuse box under the dash board.
The coil basically melt inside the housing, like it had a shot or something.


#7

I wonder if you got the proper coils. Incorrect coils can cause high resistance and overheat to a point of melting. This could result in shorts and blown fuses. I would check that and the battery first.

Oops… was supposed to be a reply to OP.


#8

If the coil melted, whatever caused that (usually a short circuit) may have also damaged the ignition module. Still, while that might prevent starting, I doubt it would prevent cranking. It might have drained the battery enough to prevent cranking however. One test you could ask your shop, remove the battery and charge it up with a battery charger, then reinstall and measure if there’s any unusual current drains on the battery. Both when the key is off, and when it is on (but not running). Your shop will know to not try to measure that during cranking as it would probably damage the meter.


#9

There is a fuse/relay panel under the hood and it should be near the battery. Look for a black plastic cover that protects the fuses and other things inside the box. If you can’t locate it then I suggest you have a shop look into the problem. From the trouble you describe it is going to be a fairly involved issue to fix.