So. My car shakes badly when i get above 35 mph and up. It shakes under acceleration and braking above these speeds. Under these speeds its fine. When im above 35 if im just coasting its fine it doesnt shake. The shaking feels like im off the side of the road and driving over rumble strips. What could be the cause of this?
What you might be feeling is tire bounce. This happens when the struts get worn out.
A bad tire comes to mind. Does it occur when you drive a steady speed (neither accelerating nor braking)?
No. When im off the gas and just coasting its fine and smoothe. Its only when accelerating or braking. If i say accelerate to 60 and take my feet off the pedals. Theres no problem at all. I was suggested a lower ball joint
I’m thinking possibly bad motor mounts. The engine shifts under load accelerating and braking. If bad motor mounts allow the engine to shift too much, the engine and CV joints can cause a very noticeable shake.
Then you need to have the steering/suspension components inspected.
You know what happens if a ball joint fails at 60 MPH? You go for a ride, but you’re not in control.
Shaking associated with acceleration that goes away when you coast is very often related to either deteriorated engine/transmission mounts and/or bad inner CV joints. It would feel like a whole car shake - felt more in the seat and feet than in the steering wheel.
However, if you have shaking in the steering wheel, this can be very bad and indicate things like tie rods and ball joints. So where do you feel the shake.
The shaking while on the brakes is typically different from an acceleration shake and would come from either brake rotor problems and/or front end problems like tie rods or ball joints.
Another possibility, however, is that your engine is having trouble from something like spark or fuel issues. How many miles on the car? How old are the plugs and wires? Fuel filter? Etc. Is the check engine light on? It’s likely that none of this applies to the shaking while braking issue though.
Honestly, it sounds like you need to have it into a competent mechanic sooner rather than later.
Yes, a thorough check of the front suspension (and CV joints, while they’re at it) is in order, sooner rather than later.
I am thinking new plugs, gas and air filter, trans fluid and filter, maintenance history? if good harmonic balancer. Any check engine light?
Sounds like engine/xmission mounts, drive-lines or -axles, or a suspension problem. That’s where I’d start if it were my car.
No check engine lights. And honestly i just bought the car so i dont know of previous history besides oil change receipts. I knew about the suspension problem. The owner told me he was told it was tie rod. I had it pre inspected at meineke where i was told a lower ball joint. And it is a whole car shake. Seat/steering wheel/front end
Start with the Ball joint, do routine maintenance and after that see whats up.
The suspension parts are wearing parts, and are designed to make them relatively easy to replace. Myself, I prefer a local inde mechanic rather than a chain shop for something simple like this. First off, you need a correct diagnosis. Ask friends co-workers relatives etc for a mechanic recommendation.
The car was 35 miles away from home and asking price was 1250. I takked him to 900 to allow for some repairs so i decided to jump on it
Ask around for a locally owned, independent shop that advertises “alignment” - possibly even in the name of the business (“Joe’s Wheel Alignment”). Take the car there - like now - and have them thoroughly inspect the steering and suspension. You can report back with results and ask for advice but things like tie rods and ball joints are immediate service items. How does this look to you? http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_-meaZbydIIU/Sg1tnUmBUFI/AAAAAAAAClM/htBKjF1W05Q/s1600-h/PDR_0002.JPG
Until i can make it into the shop i will just keep it under 35
If you know they are bad, get them fixed while it is cheap and easy to do. Wait too long, something will break, and them it can be both expensive and deadly.
Here’s a video of a car with a broken tie rod end:
And here’s a car with a broken lower ball joint.
I guess 35 might degrease the chances of death but it won’t necessarily keep you from ball joint failure (if that is one of the issues): “today the lower ball joint failed while I was doing about 35mph”
The only thing that surprises me after watching all of those posted videos is that the automobile fatality rate is not higher than it is.
This issue of safety is near to my heart. I have a niece who has permanent brain damage from a one car accident. The car lost a ball joint, left the road, and flipped after hitting a culvert pipe at speed. Both her and the friend driving nearly died. For a bad ball joint that costs less than $20 and could have been fixed in around an hour.