The oil will have a tendency to thin a bit when warmed up so the possibility of a weak lifter or worse; abnormally low oil pressure or a partially clogged oil galley, is a possibility anyhow.
The reason for asking about whether it ticked at idle was to weed out the possibility of this being a pre-ignition problem so at least that issue is put to rest.
I’ve seen some rebuilt engines suffer oil flow problems due to the rebuilder using various types of sealant in places where it should not have been used. In several cases, the new engine failed within a few miles of being up and running.
I’m not saying at all that the rebuilder here committed this kind of error; just pointing out a scenario that could be problematic if applicable.
Sorry I can’t be of more help. There are just too many unknowns about how the engine was rebuilt but it kind of stinks a bit based on the story as related.
I think there comes a point, regardless of what you have invested in the guy, that you take it to a dealer and get the thing fixed right. You do not have to keep going back 8 times over a year trying to get it done right. You only have to return it once and then you are free to go somewhere else to get it fixed, and then seek redress from the guy for the extra cost. I think time is up.
You are right. The challenge will be in seeking the “redress” and unfortunately I’m not in a position to leave anything on the table. However, if the dealer was able to prove the job was either not done or not done properly, perhaps it would turn out ok. I’ll give this some more thought. I really feel I’ve been raked over the coals and I won’t allow that to happen.
I don’t think you need new lifters (cam follower), I think the mechanic just didn’t keep the lifters in order when he removed them. If he mixed them up, then they wouldn’t be matched to the cam lobes anymore.
Now the difficulty will be figuring out which lifter went with each position. BTW, all mechanics should know to keep the lifters in order, its in the repair manuals.
He said he never replaced anything on the upper engine. That should have done as a full engine rebuild for the price I paid and the description of work he gave me. 2 issues keep surfacing, (1) continuous ticking when the engine is running and (2) Camshaft Adjuster codes causing the check engine light to go on. Both of this issues, as I understand it, are part of the upper engine assembly which would include Cylinder Head & Valves assemblies and Camshaft & Timing Assblys. Am I right??
What kind of rebuild job for $5000? Well, for $5000, you should get a pretty good one. There’s quite a few reports here though about problems w/rebuilt engines. Not just those rebuilt at mom & pop inde shops, but the factory shops that rebuild thousands of engines. The reason is simple. Rebuilding an engine is a very complicated task. And newer engines from 1980’s and later vehicles are much more complicated than earlier. Not only things like variable valve timing and complicated emissions control doo-dads complicate the process, but also compatibility issues with the engine computer, sensors, computer controlled actuators, and software. And a single mistake in any of this during the rebuild process can make the effort a potential nightmare of ongoing difficult to diagnose problems for the car owner.
I’ve never totally rebuilt an engine (other than my lawnmower); and I’ve never purchased a rebuilt engine. Others here have much more expertise on this topic. But if I were to get involved in this, and didn’t want to do it myself, I wouldn’t take starting down this path lightly.
I’d try to increase my odds by:
Only attempting such a thing with an engine that had a huge production volume.
Using a mechanic or shop who specializes in that particular make of vehicle.
If neither of those above work out, the next option would be to see if there is a brand new aftermarket engine compatible with the vehicle.
Still a no-go? I’d sell or scrap the vehicle and cut my losses.
In answer to the question about the ticking and cam adjuster - yes, it is top end stuff, so if they only rebuilt the bottom end then they wouldn’t have done anything with this stuff during the partial rebuild.
Remember, I had the engine rebuilt as a result of a water pump failure when I was on the highway and the engine immediately overheated and I pulled over. Engine was still (barely) running but smoking badly and very rough. I shut off with the key and got a tow. The engine still started.
After that, the mechanic changed the water pump and coils, but engine was still not working so recommended an “Engine Rebuild.”
Items he listed on the bill were “Machine Shop Mill Cylinder Head Valve Job,” Pistons (4), set piston rings (1), oil pump (1), eng gasket set and the ignition coils (3). Total price for rebuilt engine was $5220. In addition, during the same job he found an issue with the electrical harness and ECU module (legit because a previous mechanic botched the harness previously). That was an additional $1380. All this took 6 mos - as ECU and harness were hard to get.
When I left off with all of you, we were talking about lifters and followers - to address a Cam Shaft Adjuster failure code. He had just replaced the Timing Assbly to address it and the codes did not go away.
Once he completed the lifters and followers in this job, he found out the oil pressure was low after the engine ran for about 15 mins, so then re-replaced the oil pump. He now says the engine is still running rough and the oil pressure still isn’t where it should and a new check engine code has appeared - now says he needs to replace 2 hydraulic valve accumulators, which he says would be extra $ out of my pocket.
Bottom line here is I expected a fully rebuilt engine when I rec’d the vehicle back in Feb last year. The van has been in the shop 8 different times since then, 2X-to replace ignition coils, 1X - for an unrelated door latch issue, and 3X for the Cam Shaft Adjuster check engine codes which led to the above additional repairs (lifters, followers, oil pump, timing assbly) and now we’re talking about hydraulic accumulators.
Questions:
Should I hold him accountable for the hydraulic valve accumulators as part of the original rebuilt engine job and warranty? My guess is ‘yes’ but I want to be fair.
Given he has been basically rebuilding the entire top end piecemeal, it sounds likely that the hydraulic accumulators may have gotten damaged because of not doing the job properly in the first place. Am I correct to come to this conclusion?
In the meantime, he now says the check engine bulb isn’t working (but the audible/sound alert does work). He says that is just coincidence and to fix it would be my responsibility. Does this make sense given he’s had it for the past 2 months?? What would cause that to happen? I understand its an LED bulb and its rare for them to blow out.
Nightmare, but I have to get this right and need your advice on the above. Thanks!
Remember, I had the engine rebuilt as a result of a water pump failure when I was on the highway and the engine immediately overheated and I pulled over. Engine was still (barely) running but smoking badly and very rough. I shut off with the key and got a tow. The engine still started.
After that, the mechanic changed the water pump and coils, but engine was still not working so recommended an “Engine Rebuild.”
Items he listed on the bill were “Machine Shop Mill Cylinder Head Valve Job,” Pistons (4), set piston rings (1), oil pump (1), eng gasket set and the ignition coils (3). Total price for rebuilt engine was $5220. In addition, during the same job he found an issue with the electrical harness and ECU module (legit because a previous mechanic botched the harness previously). That was an additional $1380. All this took 6 mos - as ECU and harness were hard to get.
When I left off with all of you, we were talking about lifters and followers - to address a Cam Shaft Adjuster failure code. He had just replaced the Timing Assbly to address it and the codes did not go away.
Once he completed the lifters and followers in this job, he found out the oil pressure was low after the engine ran for about 15 mins, so then re-replaced the oil pump. He now says the engine is still running rough and the oil pressure still isn’t where it should and a new check engine code has appeared - now says he needs to replace 2 hydraulic valve accumulators, which he says would be extra $ out of my pocket.
Bottom line here is I expected a fully rebuilt engine when I rec’d the vehicle back in Feb last year. The van has been in the shop 8 different times since then, 2X-to replace ignition coils, 1X - for an unrelated door latch issue, and 3X for the Cam Shaft Adjuster check engine codes which led to the above additional repairs (lifters, followers, oil pump, timing assbly) and now we’re talking about hydraulic accumulators.
Questions:
Should I hold him accountable for the hydraulic valve accumulators as part of the original rebuilt engine job and warranty? My guess is ‘yes’ but I want to be fair.
Given he has been basically rebuilding the entire top end piecemeal, it sounds likely that the hydraulic accumulators may have gotten damaged because of not doing the job properly in the first place. Am I correct to come to this conclusion?
In the meantime, he now says the check engine bulb isn’t working (but the audible/sound alert does work). He says that is just coincidence and to fix it would be my responsibility. Does this make sense given he’s had it for the past 2 months?? What would cause that to happen? I understand its an LED bulb and its rare for them to blow out.
Nightmare, but I have to get this right and need your advice on the above. Thanks!