I have a 2000 Jetta with 140K miles on it. Recently had an air sensor replaced b/c the check engine light would turn on when it was about 40 degrees and off again at about 35 degrees. I only say that as general information, since this is more serious. It has had several issues in the past before then (it is a VW) That was two months ago. The car was parked for a month and then drove NY to New Orleans, and has been fine ever since.
Now the check engine light has come on again, and yesterday as I was almost home it started blinking. I drove it a mile down the road to AutoZone and noticed that the check engine only starts to blink if I am in 2nd gear and going over 20 mph.
At idle the car feels like it is shaking like an old diesel. When I open the hood the main/mid engine section also shakes back and forth. But if I’m in neutral and rev the accelerator for 10 seconds or so, the shaking ceases and the check engine light stays solid.
AutoZone’s free check engine light service gave me codes P0301 and P0411.
The definition of P0301 - cylinder misfire detected
1. Ignition system fault-spark plug(s)
2. vacuum leak
3. injector fault
4. high or low fuel pressure
The definition of P0411 - Secondary air injection system fault
1. Circuit relay defective or fuse open
2. Check connector and wiring
3. AIR pump defective or hoses blocked
So, my questions are the same as everyone else: What are the possibilities, and how much is it going to cost me? I am also well aware that I am very quickly approaching the end of my rope in times I am going to fix this car. Toyota or Honda from now on.
I realize that as written it sounds like the engine stops shaking at idle when I rev the engine. That’s not the case. It just stops shaking when i am in Neutral and rev the engine. But if I let it idle after that it goes back to shaking. Sorry for the confusion.
The P0411 has nothing to do with all that shakin’ goin’ on. The two circuits might have some common fault in their wiring. Might.
P0301 is most likely caused by a spark plug, or bad spark plug wire. Next, could be the ignition coil. Of course, tests are designed for this stuff.
I disagree. The P0411 fault may well be causing the misfire code also. That’s the one I would start with tracking down.
EDIT: Check out this thread:
thanks for the replies (and the vortex link). I probably need to go through my receipts of past repairs, because replacing air valve tubing sounds familiar. Whatever it is, I hope it’s cheap.
Anyone else have a suggestion or thought?