Diagnosing and troubleshooting blower on 2005 Pontiac Vibe

Going from what you describe about this problem I think you may have purchased the wrong parts to solve the trouble. My guess is the trouble is coming from the blower relay. The contacts inside it wear over time and can cause the intermittent operation you described. You can verify that by tapping on the relay to see if that makes the blower turn on. You can locate it by turning the blower on and off and listening for the location of the relay click. You will be able to feel the vibration of the relay when you touch it to verify you have the right one.

Ok, I understand where you’re trying to go but you lost met after “blower relay,” in the first sentence. I have very little car fixing experience other than replacing a driver side mirror assembly. So, I shouldn’t try replacing the parts I purchased? I’m happy to try your suggestion but I would need more detailed SIMPLER instructions please! I really do appreciate everyone’s input!

Relays are used to switch power on to devices that require a fairly high amount of current. The blower motor uses perhaps around 8 to 12 amps. The relay is a fairly small device and if you do a web search on a Bosch relay you will be able to see what they generally look like. The blower relay should be located somewhere under the dash. They unplug from a socket so they are easy to replace. Once you find the relay try tapping on it to see if the blower will turn on. If it does then replace the relay, it has bad switch contacts inside it.

I’m searching for relays but only motor blower resistors come up. What am I doing wrong?

I'm not sure unless you are searching on this site rather than a Google search. Here is one of the over 2.5 million hits I got for Bosch relay.

http://www.amazon.com/Tyco-Relay-SPDT-Formerly-Bosch/dp/B000P61E36

Well I’m confused as to the relay’s location for the 2005 Pontiac Vibe. I don’t get any hits at all.

Under the hood, most likely near the battery, or on the inner wheel fender, drivers side, you should find a black, mostly square plastic box. You should also be able to see a lot of wires (the harness) running into the bottom of it. Take off the cover (if you need tools, it’s not the right box). Turn the cover over in your hands, and look inside it. You should see a diagram of everything in that box, and what it does.

Status report! I took out the motor and there’s still clicking! I looked and its coming from a “door” or “flap” that moves to circulating or outside air positions! Is it stuck? It appears like it stuck at the circulating position! Is it a fuse? Help!

Ok, search results now say it could be a flap motor? Where would the relay be for that?

ok, now I’m buying a actuator. I’m a little frustrated but I think I’m on the right track now. Any tips on GETTING TO the actuator? I know it’s above the blower motor. Can I remove the dashboard? Is it hard to do?

I’m a little baffled here. You first stated the blower wasn’t working and now you are looking at a vent door actuator as the trouble. Though they work together in the air vent system they are seperate things. If the blower isn’t working that won’t effect the vent door actuator.

I had the same problem w/my '05 Vibe. First, the fan switch worked only on the high speed. Then, not at all. Replaced the blower motor resistor. (Under glove box and to the left of the blower motor housing.) Even with the new resistor, the blower motor worked only intermittently. A good “slug” to the bottom of the glove box area would get it blowing again - at least for a few months. Then, nothing at all. Replaced the blower motor and all is well. I checked fuses, too. All of this requires laying/kneeling down on the floor under the dash, so it helps to be flexible. As for the clicking sound, I have that, too, but only if the Recirc button is NOT engaged. It’s not directly related to the blower motor and resistor issue, but it is annoying. The defroster will not operate in the “Recirc” mode, so if I need to use the defroster, the noise returns until “Recirc” is re-engaged. It’s as someone replied - it’s due to a broken gear tooth in vent actuator door assembly (or something like that). I found all of this information - including how-to photos and additional advice - on the genvibe.com website.

Thanks for the genvibe.com info. I did find it useful up to a point but they assume alot and I'm a newbie at this. So in fact I have TWO issues. The fan will intermittently work on the occasional bump in the road AND the clicking noise. I thought both were related. I have to tell you you guys. I learned SO MUCH and I really appreciate every one's input. Did I need to buy a new blower motor? Probably not but since I was there and the the components in question were original and the motor was $40 I thinking why not while I'm down there and it's a really difficult to maneuver much less learning a new orientation working upside down. So, now over the weekend I purchased the actuator for approx $45 through Amazon, other wise it would be $90+ locally. Yes it's adding up but, I'm doing it myself and a real sense of  satisfaction. Total for parts approx $120.
Here's what I need help on now. Where can I purchase the plastic push pins I had to break to remove the rubber seals investigating an easier access to the actuator? I was hoping I could do it via the hood but the firewall is blocking me. I'm thinking I can do it if I remove the radio and reach through there and NOT have to remove the entire dash.

You could try a parts store to see if they have some pins but you may have to go to the dealer parts department for them.

Those pins should be “push-push” pins. When they’re installed, you push them in to the first indent and they lock (and are flush), then you can take something small (like a pen) and push the middle in a bit more (about 1/8") and it’ll allow the pin to be removed. I know it’s kinda late for this info, but hopefully you don’t break any more. :slight_smile:

Chase

I’m sorry but what you really need first is a factory service manual somewhere between $150 - $200. The manual will describe troubleshooting procedures for that model, show locations of all components, give step by step instructions on replacement, and so on. If you know very little, a factory manual is the best learning device.

It should have been a simple matter to determine whether or not the blower motor was running at all or just the air door jammed shut. If the blower motor was not working, a simple check with a volt meter at the blower socket would have told you if the relay and everything else was working, therefore the motor is bad. If the motor was working but no air coming out, that would have been a whole 'nother trouble shooting chart including the air doors which are vacume operated, the HVAC controller, etc.

I’ve had factory manual going back to 1968 for just about every car I’ve ever owned and they are the best way to gain a reasonable knowledge of the car and also to get specific information on what screw to take out to access something. Its what the guys at the dealership use. Even if you don’t do the repair yourself, it is a good way to determine whether it is a job you should tackle or not.

After FINALLY removing the dashboard and purchasing a couple more socket, I was able to access the actuator. I then replaced the actuator, resistor and blower motor. I have to tell you, I really have a huge sense of satisfaction completing this. Yes I could have purchased the service manual but the idea was to spend as little as possible. The air works great! Thanks for everyone’s input and support! I think I might have a new hobby. Do you know if there are any classes to take for basic maintenance, online or in person?

Glad it is resolved. Really the best learning device is a factory service manual. It has all of the information and procedures needed. They are available from Helminc.com for GM and other brands. Yes they are pricey but much more detailed than the Chiltons. You can always get the model specific Chiltons for about $25 for basic information which would be better than nothing. Once you get beyond the basics of oil changes, filters, tire pressure, etc. a manual is really helpful.

I have to commend you on doing that job. Removing the dash on a car isn’t an easy thing to do, especially for a beginner. There may be some classes you could take at a local community college perhaps. There certainly are a lot of books out there you can purchase to study from. Purchasing a factory service manual for the car when you can afford one is one of the best investments a person can make if they want to work on the vehicle themselves. You can also sometimes find CD versions of the manual on Ebay for a very reasonable price.

This is interesting. I didn’t bring this up earlier because I thought it was an anomaly. My daughter had the same problem with her 03 Corolla. I see several people here have had the same problem with their Corolla/Matrix/Vibe models.

Being the type of person I am, I tried to take the blower motor apart. I never got it apart because it is riveted together with some very heavy duty rivets. Anyway, there was nothing wrong with the brushes, but there was some contamination on part of the armature. If the blower motor was shut off while the brushes were on this section of the armature, it would not restart. Sometimes hitting a bump in the road would get it started again.

I managed to clean the gunk off the armature by working through the very limited access provided by the motor design. Now I’m wondering if Toyota is having a quality problem with the supplier of those motors.