I had plugs and wires changed to try clear code. Car seemed to do some better but while trying to go up a steep hill car started stuttering and jerking.power went out of car and check engine light started blinking fast.after let the car sit for bout 45mins car started running fine again and light stopped flashing but remained on. Code read cylinder2 misfire again. Anyone got any idea whats happening?
Hook up a noid light and make sure the injector is getting pulsed
Yeah, it would be nice to know what kind of vehicle this is…
An EGR valve sticking open can produce similar symptoms…
Have you ever tried to light a match from a match-book and it didn’t light? You never know if it is the match itself, or the striking surface that is the problem. Same with misfires, you know a spark in a correctly compressed mixture of gasoline and air will always ignite it, so when it doesn’t – the def’n of “misfire” – it is either a problem with the spark, the timing of the spark, the mixture, or the compression. Your mechanic will just have to work down that list one by one until you find something that’s not correct. Since the spark is the easiest thing to check, suggest to your mechanic to start there. Your mechanic may have to start swapping ignition components and/or injectors between cylinders, see if the problem follows the switch or not. Be sure your mechanic takes full advantage of the diagnostic functions that are included w/the car’s ECM software too.
I tried to report this as a duplicate post so the moderator could combine it with the other, but apparently I don’t have permission to do that.
Anyway mewmew, it is difficult for us to help you out when you make duplicate posts.
But we do need to know what type of ignition system you have, distributor, lost spark, COP. If you don’t know, then give us the year make model and number of cylinders of your vehicle.
Oops guess model and stuuf would be nice. Its a 1999 subaru legacy
Its a 4 cylinder and it takes coil pack. Has 168k miles on it
car has single module coil pack for 4 cylinders which costs a bit more than typical 2X coil packs like GM cars use. a 15yr old car might benefit from new coil pack.
Is there anyway to check coil to see if thats.the issue without buying brand new one?
A very basic check of the coil pack can be done with an ohmmeter checking resistances on the windings. I don’t know the specs, but they should be in a repair manual. This is the kind of thing that can tell you if the coil pack is bad. But unfortunately, it can’t tell you for sure that it is good. So bad results will be definitive. Good results will be ambiguous.
But I would check the fuel pressure and compression before anything else. Stumbling under load often means that the fuel pump isn’t keeping up. And just because the computer only reports misfire on one cylinder doesn’t necessarily mean anything. The computer does not report everytime a misfire happens. It also may be an interaction between marginal fuel pressure and marginal injector.
A compression check would be able to rule out a mechanical problem on cylinder 2. There’s no point in going on if the compression is poor. If the compression is ok, I would probably swap the #2 injector with another one and see if the misfire follows.