I have a 2005 Camry, about 200k miles. 2AZ-FE engine. U250-E transmission. I hear a whining sound when pressing the accelerator pedal, with the car in park and the car not moving. Listen to video. You may have to turn up the audio. This is with me pressing on the accelerator and getting it up to 2,000 to 3,000 RPM.
I don’t know if it’s normal for this car or not, the sound I’m hearing? It seems to be coming from the serpentine belt area.
At this point I have replaced the belt tensioner (it was chirping), and the alternator. The belt is in good condition, not cracks. I spin the other pullies and they are not loud. I do not seem to be loosing power steering fluid or coolant. AC seems to be working fine, gets cold air.
At this point, I’m not sure how to diagnose this further, or if maybe this is just normal for this car. Thanks for any help or advice on how to further diagnose this sound.
And I checked that I’m good on ATF in the transmission and oil in the engine.
I used a torque wrench on all fasteners according to service manual
One way to pin point the noise if it is internal or external is to remove the belt and start it and see if the noise goes away or is still there… don’t let the engine run hot if the water pump is driving by said belt…
Thanks I’ll get another belt just to help rule things out. Also that belt checker. The one I have is about 60k miles old. If that doesn’t work I’'ll try running it from cold start without the belt like you suggest. If it’s internal to the engine or transmission, what could be the typical culprit, I presume that there isn’t really a good way to easily tell
This is probably of no help for OP’s configuration, but I had similar symptom on my truck one time, turned out a coolant hose was very slightly interfering w/radiator fan. Didn’t occur until coolant reached full temp, which softened hose and allowed it to move into slightly different position. Sounded like soft buzzing at idle, but louder whining at higher rpms. Same thing could happen if a belt was slightly interfering w/something. Take a careful look at the belt(s), see anything discoloration etc on the edge of a belt?
If it is internal then you will have to start digging deeper and depending on your skill level and tools you might need to take it to a skilled engine technician…
I mean like you said the obvious thing to do is to run the car for a few seconds with the belt off, while keeping an eye on the temperature, to make sure it doesn’t overheat, to see if the noise still exists.
I did notice that the pulley on my water pump, has some minor pitting on it’s surface. It’s an un-grooved pulley that is supposed to be typically smooth. Is minor pitting in the pulley in some spots an issue? I don’t think pitting would be an issue, but I’m not sure. I know on a grooved pulley, pitting to the point where the grooves are damage would cause obvious problems. But I’m not sure on groveless pullies if it matters.
I’ve ordered the belt, waiting for it to get here. Will test without belt in a few days hopefully.
I did not hear a whine, more like a little valve train sound. I will admit that I have a lot of hearing loss in the high registers. Have trouble hearing female voices so it is not all bad Been married 65 years.
Don’t you remember signing the Husband’s Union contract when you got married? It specifically requires you to ignore or forget everything your wife says.
Well considering I’m at nearly 200k miles and have never had a valve clearance job done, it might be time to check it. It’ll defiantly be something I explore doing if I’m able to pin point that the noise is something internal. Even if it doesn’t solve the noise issue I hear, it’s probably overdue and wouldn’t hurt to check to make sure it’s in specification.
Anyone have a video I can watch on someone doing this job? I’ve done this job before on a CR-V engine, that didn’t have valve lifters, but you could adjust it. When I did this job, it was with an engine already removed from the car, never with it still in the car.
From what I remember Toyotas don’t use adjustable rocker arms like Honda does for valve lash adjustment, but rather a Shim (spacer like) to adjust the valve lash… How ever I think the 2AZ-FE engine uses a shimless valve lifter design, meaning it cannot be adjusted. However, the valve to lifter clearance can be adjusted by swapping out a lifter that is the correct size, the lifter is available in 35 different sizes. (again if I am remembering correctly)
Unless you are well versed in engine repair it can be a PIA, I have never done the lifter swap thing but have built a few Toyota engines and the shims were a bit of a PIA also, unless you just really like measuring with calipers in the 0.001 of an inch writing it all down and doing the math (not that hard) to figure out what shim to swap out/adjust the thickness of, and then put the valve train back together and recheck and hope you are correct… lol you might want to let a professional do it for you… But I don’t know your skill level and available tools…
Hey thanks. I do believe you are correct. This engine has valve lifters. Overtime they wear out, and can even punch a whole through the lifter. With time the space between the camshaft lobe and the valve lifter Increases. Shove a feeler gauge in-between and see if it’s in specification. If not you need to remove the camshaft, and measure the thickness of the valve lifters. From there calculate the valve lifters you need.
Never done this on an engine with valve lifters, only on a Honda. Also never done this before on an engine still in the car. Do I have to be worried about removing the camshaft, as far as the timing chain being less tight, and coming off the sprocket for the crankshaft? Might be kind of hard to get it back on without removing the timing chain cover, or maybe I don’t need to worry about this?
I can’t find a video of someone doing this job. Any ideas on where I can get the valve lifters? They are at the dealership of course for $20+ for a single one, but I can’t find them on online part vendors like rock auto for example. I’d rather get them online, if possible. Maybe buy a bunch of wide assortment of them.
Using a feeler gauge and seeing if any of the lifters even need to be replaced is something I can definitely do. Maybe even replacing the ones that need to be replaced. Replaced the valve cover gasket on this engine a few times.
Been married 65 years.