What could be cheaper than $50 for a scanner (99% sufficient for driveability concerns) with subsequent FREE google search? Not to mention that the scenario can be repeated infinite number of times for the same whopping $50. And final consideration, just the code may be misleading and having it is as good as the ability to interpret, and that’s something I would not trust a third party with. Speaking from 20 years of experience as an Automotive Mechanical Breakdown Inspector. Searching online ALWAYS gives better results/more complete picture than an opinion of a single mechanic usually summarized to "jack up the radiator cap and replace the car:.
Quality isn’t cheap.
Do you want a good diagnoses? or do you want cheap? Usually can’t have it both ways.
Ask around. Ask family, friends, coworkers who they use to get car repairs done. I agree with others that chains/franchises are usually not the way to go, but if you have one highly recommended by someone, it may not be a bad idea. There are some good ones out there (example: the Firestone right down the street is excellent. another example: the pepboys just down the street a little farther I wouldn’t trust to change a flat.)
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My most challenging customer on the phone working at a parts store wanted parts for his Chevrolet “Plumber’s truck” which I had a mental image of which one that could be but it was going to be easier to just give the model GM calls it. Even called a chevy dealer that did commercial and they weren’t sure which one the customer had. The guy eventually called my manager who told me I did the best anyone could for that guy. Tried several times to refer him to Napa or CarQuest who supply parts for commercial vehicles every day. We catered to the shade tree guys coming in off the street with a handful of commercial customers.
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Situations like this are when you ask for the VIN number. Did he not have that available with him at the time? It is printed on his insurance cards as well if the truck was broken down or not with him at the time.
I had one like this where the customer called all mad because their Dell computer kept getting viruses. I tried explaining this had nothing to do with the brand of their computer but they wanted it replaced. So I go out to replace just their desktop tower because their monitor and all was fine. They had a Dell monitor and that is the part they see everyday with the Dell emblem on it. When I got down on the floor to look at the tower, it was an HP. Then they started asking if that was why they were having so many problems since the units must not be compatible. No, it doesn’t work that way. Anyway, the tower needed to go as it was a terrible cheapo but they didn’t even know what brand they had. They wanted to replace the monitor and printer as well since they weren’t matching brands and I told them they were just throwing money away.
I had been asking them for the Dell service tag which is like the serial number and can be looked up to see exactly how the computer was configured from the factory, just like a VIN number. I was telling them what to look for and where to find it. Of course they couldn’t because I was basing this on the wrong make.
This is like saying you can’t buy NAPA brand coolant because you bought the radiator hoses at AutoZone. I tell people you can’t be too concerned about brand but to buy quality. I had to buy drums at one store and shoes at another store last time I did a brake job. That is how things are right now so you can’t only buy from one supplier, whether it is auto parts or IT. I have put Motorcraft oil filters on other makes as well.
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Everybody seems to have assumed that there’s a code to read. I’d like to know what the OP is looking to learn from what he calls a “diagnostic.” It would also help to know what car we are talking about.
I don’t know much about cars made since 1990, but tell us make model mileage symptoms and I will give you a free opinion, anyway. I have a couple of inexpensive code readers and they have never told me what I wanted to know.
The problem you are having isn’t w/the code reader I expect, but that the codes only provide a clue where to start looking, seldom the exact problem. Diy’er are often victims of thinking the code tells them what part to replace. That method may have worked on vintage cars, but with modern designs it’s just too easy to run out of money before running out of ideas what to replace next.
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Nothing more frustrating than changing $300 worth of parts due to a bad connector. I once had a speed sensor fault. Speed sensor was expensive so I checked the wiring from sensor all the way to the ABS module. All was good so put in aftermarket sensor. Still threw a code. Then went OEM. Still threw code. Did a jiggle test on the connector and found that was the problem. $300 paid for a free repair. 
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Depends. Once had a Honda that started like a champ cold but very reluctantly warm. Actually burned out a starter before using a code reader live data setting to see that the coolant temp sensor was shot, stuck on reporting a cold engine. Fooling the computer just resulted in flooding the engine when it was warm. I think the sensor was $20 and solved the problem completely. Curious thing is the engine had two temp sensors, one for the computer and the other for the dash gauge so the dash gauge was accurate confusing the problem and delaying the diagnosis.
The actual codes are near worthless even to a high percentage of diy’ers who think they can do the repair. They think the code means “replace this part”, instead of diagnosing why this part is not doing what it is expected to do.
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And that’s a perfect business model for the auto parts stores that are offering free OBD printouts.
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If your point is that “professionals” go to the bottom of things, I can assure you it’s not the case - they just throw parts in based on codes, and the only person who has an incentive to fix it right is a DIY’er.
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Yeah… honda’s electric system is sometimes funky. I remember the case when a civic died because of a blown alternator fuse but no light came on on dashboard. It turned out that the light was on the same circuit with the secondary alternator coil so when the fuse blew, it effectively stopped the battery from charging AND disable the warning light which only purpose in life was to warn about blown fuse. WTF?!?
You keep posting this nonsense . Most shops want to fix the problem so they don’t have to have the vehicle come back and do more at their expence .
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I spent nearly 20 years in the field as a Mechanical Breakdown Inspector covering tri-state area for virtually every extended warranty company in the country. I dealt with every single shop/dealership within 200mi radius in a MAJOR metropolitan area. I know.
Most shops may WANT to fix the problem but very few are WILLING to invest time and effort into finding root cause not to mention that the issue may re-appear months or years later so you never see the fruits of your labor.
I agree, somewhat. I’ve had shops throw parts at a vehicle in the past - that’s mainly why I started doing my own work when possible. Much cheaper for me to throw parts at it than to pay someone else to do it. However, I’m sure there are still some shops that actually diagnose the problem. Trouble is, it still may be cheaper to throw parts at it than it is to pay diagnostic time in some cases.
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True. Sometimes, it is indeed cheaper to replace a part providing a. the part is cheap and b. there is no major labor involved. Unfortunately, these days a. is rarely the case.
I am mainly talking about attitude/approach. When I was in the field, stealers did not pay technicians diagnostic time but did charge customers.
If they just throw parts at a problem they can hardly be considered professionals. So I guess our definitions of professional differ.
I completely agree, “come backs” blow, everyone loses.
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And you admit it 
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I provided INDEPENDENT TECHNICAL EXPERTISE, I was not involved in the coverage/payment/etc. part of it. I have nothing to be ashamed of.