Details.
I was driving my car yesterday. It stop as i gave it fuel to go around a corner.
Its a 95 mitsubishi mirage s manufacture october 94 in japan.
Its a manual
I turned the key. nothin but crankin and floodin. My friend came to take a look at it. no spark.
I smelled fuel and have still almost half a tank which mean its pumping but no spark came from the ignition wire.
I have replaced the rotor and am waitin on new ignition wires and distro cap. When i took off the distro cap i didnt see any visible cracks.
You’re wild guessing at this point because the odds of the rotor, cap, or wires causing a no-start is about slim and none.
Ignition switches (electrical part) have been known to be a problem at times. Turn the key to the RUN position and test for power at the distributor.
Does the tachometer needle jump or wiggle around while cranking the engine over? Often a failed secondary ignition problem can lead to a dead tachometer.
A car won’t quit completely because one or even 2 sparks plugs don’t work. You are getting no spark period. This could be a problem with the distributor, the coil, or perhaps no power going to the coil. To trouble shoot, first determine if the coil is getting power or not. You can replace the coil with a known good one and see if the car runs. A bad distributor is more expensive so other issues should be ruled out before going for a new distributor.
Like CSA is asking you…We will be taking off that distrib cap and with an assistant…have someone crank the engine over for you…SOON GRASSHOPPER SOON…
First things first…I am jumping ahead of myself with the distrib pulling trick
Since you were running just a second ago, this sudden loss of spark will be rather easy do diagnose…The fix is still out in the ether tho my man…could be simple…could be T-belt difficulty… Both fixable…one much cheaper and easier than the other.
While it was running and you were making your turn…did you get a “BANG”? or a “BUMP/THUMP” Feeling in your vehicle? As tho someone hit you in the bumper…a shudder or the like? Trying to see if you missed the T-belt snapping/failing on you… Quite possible here so be prepared…this would be supremely IMPORTANT my friend.
SO… I would first… pull that coil wire and have someone crank engine…Got spark at the coil wire itself? At any of the plug wires? If no at the coil then no at any wire… alas… Next test is to pull that distrib cap and check to see if the rotor is spinning while the engine is cranking? If it is NOT turning…you very likely snapped your T-belt… Plenty of checks to do after THAT happens…none of them will make you feel any better…
If it IS turning…then move to the distributor/coil/cap n rotor If she is turning you could have a faulty coil (easy to test) OR bad pickups in the base of the distributor. More tests…but you should be VERY happy that the rotor is turning for you… VERY VERY HAPPY…That is really the most important test here…cause if it isnt turning…well…you will know whats up in a hurry…
SOOOOOOO
DO these checks and let us know whats up…they will NOT take you a long time and will tell us wrenches MUCHO MAS…
You can use the Repair/Troubleshooting guide on the Autozone website to help you. WWW.AUTOZONE.COM FREE REPAIR MANUALS FOR MOST EVERY VEHICLE…AWESOME.
Well you have some checks to perform…wont take you long…we need the results of the tests so we can then proceed…we will walk you thru the rest.
If you have the 1.5l engine, and the timing belt is broken, the good news is that it is a non-interference engine so no other damage. If its the twin cam, 16 valve, 1.8 liter engine and the timing belt has snapped, then the news isn’t so good.
The bang/bump feeling only comes with the 18l engine, a broken belt on the 1.5l engine just dies suddenly. The belt on the 1.5l engine is one of the easiest belts to change as well, just make sure to torque the front crank bolt correctly or you will get a very loud knock that will sound like a spun main/rod bearing.