Yeah, but then your 6000W stove is only putting out 600W of cooking power so not very effective…
Looking at stoves, you can get a 120V two burner that draws 1500W. Simple exercise to determine what current it will draw from 12VDC (with inverter losses) to get that same power…
I have noticed that those who sell inverters and portable power equipment avoid the specifics of the power demand and output. A 15 amp 12 volt drill would equal 180 watts which is less than 1/4 horsepower while a 15 amp 120v drill would equal 1800 watts/ 2.3 horsepower. They also fail to mention that not all AC devices will operate from square wave AC.
And did the OP open this thread as a GOTCHA question?
I have been caught a few times dealing with warranting failed alternators a second time and on close inspection found that the vehicle owner was operating 1000+ watt boosters for audio systems or kickers for CB radios. Of course the slick ones knew to disconnect the 10 gauge wire from the battery and roll it up to a hidden location. And FWIW a 1,000 watt CB kicker will destroy an alternator in a few days even with an auxiliary battery installed… Just saying.
I thought I was up on camping stuff, but I didn’t realize people were dragging 2 burner electric stoves out to their tent sites, and I can’t imagine why they would want to. I have enough trouble just charging my phone sometimes when I’m camping away from an established campground, much less trying to power things that need a lot of juice.
If this is for a camper trailer, not a tent, why not just hook to shore power when you get to the campsite and not worry about truck inverters? Most campers with any sort of appliances have the ability to plug in to a campground’s outlet.
If you’re running high-draw stuff in a camper, you want a deep cycle battery (sometimes more than 1, depending) that gets charged off of AC when available, or solar when not. You don’t want to be running camping equipment of any significant power off of your truck battery, at least not for very long.
Also consider using propane for stuff that doesn’t have to be electric, like stoves. Personally I just bring a portable grill and cook everything on it. Bring a cast iron pan and you can treat the grill like a regular stovetop. Bring a cast iron dutch oven (if you get the non-enameled ones from Lodge, they’re pretty cheap) and you can even bake bread if you feel like it. Using a grill is a much less headache inducing setup than trying to power a stove with a cheap inverter.
Also be aware that not all inverters are alike. There are three types- square wave, modified sine wave, and pure sine wave, in order of expense. The more expensive ones (pure sine wave) are less likely to damage what you run on them. Some stuff does fine on the cheaper inverters, but some will be damaged, either right away or over time.
And as others have mentioned, the best solution for remote power on-demand is a generator. Motor homes come with them standard, but you usually have to add one to a pull-behind.
Not sure who that is directed at . If bcohen2010 I don’t see anything but a comment that the best solution is a gas generator as I also posted . As I have said before this is a Forum and not all replies will be the equivalent of everyone gets a Trophy that seems to be the normal now.
The level of roughing it spans the gamut. I go camping, I’m carrying everything on my back and sometimes walking in 20-30 miles through terrain no vehicle can navigate. Almost exclusively no food or beverage is heated/cooled for the entire 1-2 week trip. On the opposite side of the spectrum is glamping. If you don’t know what that is, try looking it up. You’d be amazed what some people think camping consists of today…
Yeah, I do both! On the back-woods long hike camps, I’m usually somewhere that you’re not supposed to gather wood for a fire, so my big treat is the MRE I bring along because it has that water-activated heater bag in it, so I get a hot meal halfway through. And a tiny bottle of Tabasco.
If I’m going to a race track or an air show, though, my bare minimum is an “8 person” (yeah right) tent with an air mattress, and I sometimes trade that for a rented motor home.
Of course the ultimate glamping is in those $2m bus conversion rigs which have marble floors, fire places, and full-sized porcelain toilets. I’d like to have the money for one. I’d spend it on something else, but having the money would be nice. 
If he’s talking 12V, he wouldn’t need an inverter.
No two-burner camp stove takes 50 amps at 120V. The other ones are also too high to be 120V ratings, I think.
Your 100 amp alternator is near worthless IMO. It will get smoked. No alternator, no matter the rated amperage, will function very long at that amperage or even anywhere near that.
Start applying say a 90 amp load on that alternator and it will likely go up in smoke inside of 30 seconds.
I saw a guy smoke an 80 amp alternator once by applying a 75 amp load to it with a VAT 40; and very shortly that was the end of that alternator. He simply did not heed the “don’t overdo it” warning. An alternator will only put out what is needed; safely.
My Sonoma has the 4.3 Vortec and it puts out 15 amps at idle with the lights on and A/C off.
As a side note, some years ago I smoked 3 stators on an alternator Harley. This only happened on the open road with extended riding. I finally traced it down to an aftermarket voltage regulator which is supposed to be 4 pins but actually only had 3 functioning pins. One hole was dead and that was the regulating winding wire which helped control the stator output. Factory regulators are 4 pins.
On the open road with elevated RPMs the stator output would run wild at the maximum and fry the regulator winding underneath the field coils.
Had to ride 65 miles home without lights one night on the battery alone. Thankfully the moon was out…
In the 80’s, had a friend who put in a massive sound system in an RX7 that drew more amps that the alternator couldn’t handle. He smoked his dashboard before upgrading the alternator.