Based on Gift’s past posts, his knowledge of cars is really really lacking. I wouldn’t let him inflate my tire.
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Many transmissions have much transmission fluid.
Notice “may”.
New transmission fluid added to replace what was mistakenly drained.
I wouldo as mechanic recommended: Change next oil change.
Yes, I drain what comes out. Withe correct transmission fluid, accurately replace what drained.
Drive a day or two.
Drain again. Accurately replace drained amount.
Repeat.
The 2016 RX350 has 354k now. But I accelerate gently to minimize stress on thengine and transmission.
Also minimizes fuel consumption and air pollution - the registered tree-hugger and Greenie thing to do.
Ain’t got no facts about a 2019 Subaru Legacy.
WTF does this gibberish have to do with. You’re refilling it before driving. This was driven with less than 50% of it’s fluid.
Embedded somewhere in this discussion is that the proper fluid is quite expensive, that is $200 for the fluid alone at the dealer. It is unlikely that the corner mechanic had this fluid on hand. So at the very least an expensive flush is required at the dealer. That is provable damage. There is a specific procedure for fluid changes and not just draining and adding.
A cvt is not the same as a regular transmission so low fluid can damage a cvt. That damage at this point is unknown until a dealer can provide an assessment. I’m not a mechanic or lawyer either but the car needs to go to a dealer and Walmart is on the hook for the resultant expenses. Cheap labor may not be cheap at all.
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50% ? Mechanic replacedrained fluid and suggestedrain and refill next oil change.
I merely posted what I do in my pseudo transmission fluid changes and the RX350 has passed 354K.
With the 2.5 liter engine; 11.9 quarts.
With 3.6 liter engine; 13.4 quarts.
Subaru CVT Lineartronic II fluid is $17.50 per quart.
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Here’s the lower splash shield that has to be removed from a 2020-2021 Nissan Sentra in order to gain access to the drain plug and the oil filter.
The rear of the cover sits below the front seat.
Each one of those holes has a push pin plastic retainer except for two which are 10mm bolts
Takes about 10-15 minutes to remove.
If auto makers continue to build stupid crap like this, nobody is going to want to drain the oil the proper way.
Tester
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Is there a way to cut out areas of that splashield to access the oil filter and oil plug?
How much does a Dealer oil change co$t?
My grandson wanted to help and managed to round off the corners of the drain plug head. Unable to get it loose
Harbor Freight sells special sockets for such occasions, the grip surface supposedly designed to grab somehow. I’ve not seen them in person, much less used them, but might be useful for issues like this. Hope this helps!
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I did. I cut out a section of the splash-shield on my 1998 Pathfinder. I got tired of removing the 10+ bolts every time to get to the filter. Cut a small section out then reattached that section with a hinge (making it a swing open door) and a little clasp to keep it shut. To change the filter I undid the clasp and opened the door.
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Haven’t had to do that, but have made some improvised configurations to my vehicles from time to time to make servicing easier. My truck’s radiator fan is surrounded full-circle by a wind-directing shroud. That shroud is in the way when removing the fan to replace water pump. Took me 30 minutes or more just to remove fan, very little clearance. Got tired of dealing w/ shroud problem, so I cut the shroud in half, then added a way to bolt the two halves together. Now removing the fan is a 5 minute job. I expect I’m not the only Ford truck owner who’s done this.
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Was this to post under the Why 66 in Phillips 66 topic?
That was my intent; don’t know how / why it ended up here.
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Sometimes I get a message here asking to verify which thread I’m intending to post to? Maybe something like that is the explanation. Seems to occur when I have multiple Car Talk windows open at same time.
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