Me too.
As far as the door, at a continueing Ed symposium, a presenter said to use a paper towel then discard it after you leave, if no trash can, throw the towel on the floor, eventually the facility will place a trash can there.
Another thing for OP or others reading this post in the future, is to remember that if the clutch is not pushed in, and the car is in neutral, Hill Assist does not work.
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You misread something, you only slip the clutch as you go forward, while stopped. No fancy footwork required.
On level ground I have never needed the emergency brake.
In the 60s I could tell which cars had manual transmissions, at a stop light, cars with automatic transmissions, brake lights on, manual transmissions, brake lights off.
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My drive way slopes, to reduce wear on the parking pawl I use the emergency/parking brake, apply the e-brake, then, while in gear, remove my foot from the service brake, the e-brake holds! Then shift to park and turn of the engine.
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I aree to a point what you are saying but I have had 2 manual shift cars over the years that was activated by the left foot.and was also releaised buy the left foot.
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I learned to drive a '65 Mustang 6, then a '72 Duster 6, neither with a hand brake. So 10 years of learning how to start on hills with a quick partial release of the clutch. Works fine.
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If you ever had your hand brake freeze up on you in the winter, you will be less inclined to use bit except as an emergency brake. Ya ain’t goin anywhere with the brake frozen. Better to go forward instead of backward but if you already are as forward as you can get, on ice, and an incline. . .
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Foot on the door too? 
He’s a big guy. We used to say though. The two dirtiest places were door knobs and kitchen counters. Change my mind.
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I taught both the kids and wife to always pull the e-brake every time the vehicle is parked no matter what trans, and even on the flat garage floor, no matter what - it gets set… Now that does not mean you have to pull it as hard as you can every time it is parked, but you are at least moving the cable/hardware/whatever every time the vehicle is driven and parked…
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I have used the E brake technique at times if the car had a hand E brake and not a foot E brake. A couple of my early cars handbrakes did not work so I was forced to fast-foot it.
The syncros prevent a clutchless shift unless the speed is properly matched.
And I learned to shift clutchless, both up and downshift. The easiest to do that was in my Honda S2000… brilliant 6 speed manual! But I could do it in my other cars, just not as easily.
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Before online and plastic money was included with that.
I am not sure what you think I misread. I’ve known plenty of folks who stop on a hill and slip the clutch the entire time that they are stopped because they are so afraid of rolling back into the vehicle behind them… And even recently, I saw a car on a small hill and the driver was playing with the clutch by slipping the clutch to move the car a few feet ahead and then he pushed in the clutch and let the care roll back a few feet and he did this several times…
As for being on level ground (or near level ground…) the parking brake trick is not needed as the car will not start rolling that quickly between the time you take your foot off the brake and you start moving forward…
Yes, I knew that no brake lights at a stop light probably meant a manual tranny, but that would not have worked on me. I was taught as the vehicle came to a stop, don’t put it in first, but leave the vehicle in neutral and let out the clutch pedal so you don’t put all that extra wear on the throw out bearing… and I put my foot on the brake to keep the vehicle from rolling into the vehicle ahead of me should I get rear ended (but not so hard that I’m smashed into…).
And I practice this with my Harley, when I am stopped at a light, I don’t sit there with the bike in gear… I’ve been riding for over 60-years and I’ve had a few clutch cables let go, and about 30-years ago, a friend was riding his Crotch Rocket and at the light he was cranking throttle and at about 10,000 RPMs, the cable let go, he wasn’t ready, the bike shot ahead, dumping him off the back as it wheelied onto it’s back in the intersection. It did not hit a car, but the car coming into the intersections could not stop in time and ran into and over it. They had to get a tow truck to lift the car off the bike…
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If you are writing about a foot activated parking brake, it works the same way, you just have to be prepared for the sudden release of the brakes with a bit more throttle and make sure you do not stall.
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As I wrote to Renegade above, If you are writing about a foot activated parking brake, it works the same way, you just have to be prepared for the sudden release of the brakes with a bit more throttle and make sure you do not stall.
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Nope. Umbrella handle under the dash. And I’d prefer my method over fiddling with a foot operated brake. Nothing to do with the terrible examples you posted above.
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I think this is the best solution.
I wonder how hard it would be to make a device that bumps the idle speed up from 800 to 1200 or so when the clutch is part let out part way?
The foot operated parking brake on the 9th gen F150 seems to have less than half the holding power in reverse compared to moving forward. I don’t know how much of that is normal. If the forward braking force was equal applying it would reduce the roll back and then I could power forward and release with my hand it once I start rolling forward.
I found a worm in my stool. I went to the library at Huntington Hospital, looked it up, found it was an ascaris lumbricoides, read an amusing monograph in a parasitology text (Victor?) that cited a German study that found it on most German bills.
I do this. I think it’s a good habit. Can’t hurt.
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Has anyone driven with the parking brake on? Here this is nearly guaranteed if it is not pulled up enough to cause noticable drag.
Gee thanks for sharing. A little turpentine ought to fix ya right up.