Oldsmobile Cutlass 1999 136k miles
Check engine light has been on for several months, car has stalled out 2-3 times since I’ve had it, did so after abrupt stops. Recently took an hour trip on highway over the weekend, near end of trip could hear whistling noise coming from hood. Sometimes one whistle, sometimes two overlaying, different pitches. Seems to exacerbate with accelerating and stopping.
Drove again back home, started whistling, after hour on the highway whistling stopped. Very faint whistling now, if at all. Could this be a vacuum leak, or is it likely more serious? (I say vacuum leak only after doing a little research).
I know a vacuum leak can be detected using ether, where can I buy ether? I know its highly combustible, I won’t blow my face off if I’m careful. Is there a safer way to detect vacuum leak? How much would a repair along these lines cost? Could my check engine light be a result of this?
Thanks, help much appreciated.
“Check engine light has been on for several months”
How about you go get your error codes read? Major auto parts chain stores will do this for free. Write down the exact code(s) (e.g. P1234) and post them here.
You can use an unlit propane torch to search for vacuum leaks.
A vacuum leak will be most noticeable at idle. This doesn’t sound like what you have unless it is mostly associated with braking in which case you likely have problem with the brake booster and/or its check valve.
An abrubt stop will stall almost any modern engine with even minor issues. Given the noises you report, a vacuum leak may be your problem. The reason ether will help you identify a vacuum leak is that the engine will rev higher where ether is sprayed wherever there is a vacuum leak. Ether is the active ingredient in starting fluid. It is extremely volatile. You need to avoid using this product near the spark plugs or wires.
That CEL (check engine light) is just a kid in class waving her hand trying to get you attention because she has the answer. You need to have the codes read. Some places will read them for FREE. Try Autozone or Advanced Auto Parts. Get the exact code (like P0123) not just their translation into English and post it back here.Starting fluid is not a forgiving product. I would strongly advise against using it. WD-40 and similar products will also cause the idle to flare when sprayed on vacuum leaks.
Starting fluid or an unlit propane torch are handy for looking for vacuum leaks. Seems dangerous but I have never seen or heard of anyone getting in trouble doing it.
Does the car have a plastic intake manifold? If so, that is where I am betting, and good luck. New ones are hard to get and expensive, used ones are just as old and brittle as the one you have, and repairs have a low probability of success.
Thanks for the responses from everyone. I admit I’m not the most knowledgable with cars but I do research for my own. I had to have head gaskets replaced last year because the dexcool ate right through the plastic, I’m assuming my intake gaskets are also plastic. Hopefully they’re not rotting away, I don’t like the looks of that pricing. I’m getting the codes checked in a few hours (AutoZone said it was too dark by the time I got there to do so yesterday). I’ll post them here when I’ve got them.
Thanks again.
Here are the codes from AutoZone:
P0341
P1404
P0172
P1133
The guy said I’ll need a Camshaft Position Sensor, EGR Valve, Oxygen Senor and 2 Bosch. That’ll run me around $400 just for parts. Is it possible this is just an 02 sensor I can unplug in the interim? (Inspection due this month).
First thing’s first - don’t take diagnostic & repair advice from an auto parts store person holding a scanner. A scanner can’t tell you that a part is bad. It only tells you that something about a system is out of spec. The codes are just a starting point for diagnosis. The landfills are full of perfectly good parts replaced only b/c of no diagnosis. (That, of course translates to lighter wallets for car owners).
Second, you can’t just unplug something that is throwing a code and pass inspection. That will just throw another code (or maybe one of the same ones you already have).
If you’re good around cars then roll up your sleeves. If not, just find a good local, owner-operated shop that has someone who is a diagnostician of “driveability” problems.
If you want to roll up your sleeves, take both the P0172 (system too rich, bank 1) and P1133 (upstream O2 sensor insufficient switching) and put those in the same box for now. Clean your MAF sensor. Do check for vacuum leaks (by whatever method see above) and check the fuel pressure. I’d bet that both of these codes are coming from something that is actually throwing off your air/fuel mix. It is, afterall, the O2 sensor’s job to report on that. So don’t start by shooting the messenger. In fact, one of the things that could be throwing off the air/fuel mix is poor behavior on the part of your EGR valve…
…Which is what the P1404 (closed pintle position) is about. The pintle is just a little stopper inside of the EGR valve. This code suggests that it isn’t opening up. The first thing to do is just inspect the wiring and check for voltage at the harness. Another thing is to pull the valve off and clean it. Carbon build up is a common cause of EGR issues. You should also check whatever feeds exhaust to the EGR for blockage.
P0341 is Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Range/Performance - note that it says “circuit.” So you start with basic inspection of wiring & voltage. Make sure that the CPS wiring isn’t mixed up with the spark plug wires (electrical interference). It wouldn’t hurt to pull the sensor & inspect the entire thing - the end is just a little magnet that points at a toothed wheel on the camshaft.
There’s more you can do if you have a repair manual. Either way I’d not be thinking about new O2 sensors until the other 2 codes are sorted out and until I knew that the fuel & air systems are ok.
I meant to add that ether is found in any aerosal spray can of starting fluid. You can buy a can at any auto-parts store, and direct the spay toward any suspected vacuum leak. Just be careful, and don’t overspray the product so that fumes gather in the engine compartment. The product is flammable and heavier than air.
This is great info! I decided to take it to a shop, considering I can barely change my oil. Found a good local guy, he said the thing looked like it hadn’t been tuned up since it was driven off the lot 11 years ago. He did a full overhaul of the fuel system, rewired and new plugs and replaced the hose for the vaccuum leak. A little over $300, light is still on but only for emissions. The guy says I should drive it for a bit, see if the sensor kicks itself back into gear. The guy also said it shouldn’t have been running when it did, was very surprised (funny, monroe muffler did an oil change and said they couldnt believe I was driving on 12 year old tires, I’ve replaced those since). He says the thing runs like a brand new car now, he had fun zipping around in and even offered to buy it.
I think I’ll keep it for a while, and I think I got a good deal, considering the guy seemed pretty honest and straightforward, warranties his work, matches competitor pricing, and even took it for an inspection to buy me some more time until the light turns off. Do you think it will? Do you think I got a good deal?